What’s the most important element in sending boulder problems quickly?

“Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I’ll spend the first four sharpening the ax.” – Abraham Lincoln

Let’s say you know the most efficient possible move but do it with bad technique. You’re still probably doing it about 80% or more efficiently. But let’s say you have the completely wrong beta. In this case, it’s very possible you’re only doing the sequence 10% to 50% efficiently (especially since you’re probably adding moves). Long story short: figuring out the most efficient beta is the number one thing you can do to solve a boulder problem quickly. Figure out the most efficient beta, figure out how to tweak it to make it even more efficient (straight arms, micro rests, micro beta), and then execute.

How to learn how to read beta? Climb outside, climb by yourself (so you’re forced to figure out the moves), and sometimes climb with people better than you, so you can learn from them how to read beta. Just remember: You might have V6 strength, but if you don’t have the most efficient beta you’re making that problem a V7, V8 or even a V17.