The Last Chapter | R2V3 #13

This is the video I’m warming up my brain with today:

What little progression I’ve had since starting bouldering about six months ago I owe at least in part to watching YouTube videos about bouldering pretty much constantly. Some of my favorites are made by the guy above, a young Swedish guy who gives insights into his training, his battles, his life. I feel like the three ways to learn better technique are: climbing a lot, taking classes, and watching people way better than you. Since I don’t want to pay for classes I’m left with the first option and the third option. And the third option you can do pretty much all the time, thanks to the internet.

Anyway, I climbed V3 outdoors. It happened two days ago in the fairly early morning on Friday. I had climbed the evening before near Gold Bar and had a really good sesh. I sent my first non slab V2 on the first go (not a flash since I had tried it before but couldn’t even do the first move), got closer on the knee crunching first moves of Rocksteadeasy V3 slab, did Regatta de Blanc V0 way easier than I had done it previously, and just generally felt pretty good. Felt pretty strong. Oh! And then I went to the Zelda Boulders, where I tried Zelda Dyno V4 for about an hour. And I actually got fairly close! I was able to get my right hand to the lip and scrape scan off with each unsuccessful attempt to grab it. I know it’ll go soon. I need to go back when the footholds aren’t wet. Also the mosquitoes were merciless. Between attempts I had to walk in circles on my crash pad, 1) to not get my feet wet and 2) to ward off the skeeters.

The next morning I woke up ASS early because of a shitty night of sleeping at the Money Creek Campground. I was convinced the guy in the site next to me was a psychopath who was going to come murder me in my sleep, and trains kept passing in the night. So when I woke up I thought, Fuck it, I’m outt a here. I’m driving straight to U2 and I’m going to try to send it. Leavenworth was about an hour away, but it was still before 6am when I got there, so I went to Starbucks and got an Americano:

And THEN I went to the bloc, aka U2 V3, aka the boulder I’ve been working on for the past month and was hoping to send that day since the next week I’d be dogsitting for my sister and wouldn’t have a chance to get out to it and also felt like sending V3 before the summer solstice would really give me a good psychological boost to actual have a chance to send V7 by the end of the summer.

Tu capisci?

And of course if you watched the video from the last post you know I sent it, but what you might not know is that I really didn’t think I was going to send it. Or I really wasn’t sure. That is, the day before I was CONVINCED I was going to send it, as you often are before you actually get to the bloc and start trying it. But after the first few goes I realized I still didn’t know how to do the top part really well, and short of having a rope or a ladder there’s no way you practice the top part in isolation. So after about four go’s I thought, Shit, this might actually NOT go today. And that would be a huge bummer. But all hope was not lost. I figured as long as I rested 10-20 minutes between burns I could keep going for awhile. But then my right hand started to fail from a pretty small crimp about 2/3 of the way up, and I realized the sun was going to hit it soon. I lay there on the ground, watching the clock just because I was curious, and after about 12 minutes gave it what I figured would be my second or third to last burn.

Funnily enough, I climbed really sloppily on that burn and my foot pretty much instantly slipped off. So I got right back down on the ground and started again. This really is a great climb and I think my favorite parts are: placing your right hand on the ledge in the perfect position before going left hand palm up to the undercling. Standing up on the left foot. Getting both hands on the sloping crimp rail just below the lip. Actually, I like pretty much the entire climb. There’s a reason it’s considered one of the best V3’s in Leavenworth, and I feel honored to have been able to project it. I had gotten so close the lip so many times that I thought, I just have to go for the lip. It’s right there. The reason I’m not going for it is because I’m scared of falling.

On the send burn I was more deliberate about where I put my right foot when bringing it up to the good rail. It’s a good rail but there are parts of it that are flatter than others. I also rocked over onto the right foot more to take stress off my hands. Once I felt fairly stable, I made a bit of a lunge for the lip. Luckily, the lip is amazing and all kinds of juggy. Once you get it you’re pretty much home free. And I couldn’t believe it when I got to the top. It was the best feeling I’d had in a long time.

Afterward I sat for a few moments, basking in my happiness, in the perfect temperatures of this last day of spring in Leavenworth, Washington. Basking in the short hike back to the car and being able to go back to Seattle and enjoy the rest of the day. And basking in looking forward to the next step: V4.