Sh*t’s Gone Down! | R2V3 #8

So I know you guys have been sitting by your computers or tablets or whatever technological disease-boxes you have just refreshing your browsers, over and over, and over and over again while you shove Cheetos into your gaping maw, hoping for a Where’s Wetzler, Road to V3 update, and here it finally is.

And let me say this: Shit has gone down.

Like, shit that could totally affect my career as a novice boulderer.

The shit is this: My job hours recently got reduced. From the outrageous 40 that most Americans subject themselves to…to….(wait for it)………..

………….(keep waiting)…………….

………….(maybe go grab a drink from the fridge or put the kettle on or something)…………

…………(ok now wait longer just ‘cuz you’re an impatient fuck)…………………

…………(go do some hangboarding)…………………………..

…12.

That’s right: 12. I now work 12 hours a week. Starting Monday, June 15th, the year of most people in this country’s Lord two thousand and twenty, I will work 12 hours per week. Three hours a day, four days a week. Do the trigonometry.

Now, I know what you’re thinking: This means you could, like, boulder all the time, right? You’ll be climbing V7 in, like, a week, right?

Wrong.

Actually, it could mean the exact opposite for my bouldering career. Here’s why.

You see, I’ve always been a little bit addicted to freedom. But this addiction hasn’t always been good for me, because when I have freedom I don’t always know what to do with it. Aka the last 10 or so years of my life.

Enter: My recent job.

In January of this year I got a job working for a non-profit in Seattle that brings high school students from around the world to the US on J-1 visas. This was/is an office job, 9am-5pm, mostly staring at a computer screen. Right before I got this job I started bouldering, and the two complimented each other well because I could go bouldering after work. It was also especially nice when the Seattle Bouldering Project opened up their latest “project” in Fremond, aka Upper Walls. After work I would get on the bus from U-Village, get off in Fremont, and go boulder my ass off (see: watch other people send while I unsuccessfully battled V3′). The thing is, working 9-5 made me crave freedom more than ever, and I channeled that longing/rage for freedom into bouldering, and thus was starting to become pretty obsess/progress at a pretty good clip.

Then came COVID-19 and the lockdown. This temporarily threw a big wrench in my bouldering career. I was living at my parents’ house on the west side of Puget Sound, I didn’t own a crash pad, I’d NEVER bouldered outside, and so for awhile I just….kinda….you know….like…pretty much…aka mostly….aka completely….stopped bouldering. Well, I never stopped completely. But the pulse was pretty faint for awhile. I bouldered on abandoned building near where my parents live, and then I found a boulder outside the city of Poulsbo, a glacial erratic that has lines on it that are about as pretty as…..can’t think of a good analogy right now.

But eventually I started bouldering outside. I got a crash pad. I got Pablo Zuleta’s guide to Western Washington. I got Kelly Sheridan’s guide to Leavenworth, and the point is this: Working my 9-5 job gave me LASER SHARP FOCUS on one activity, and that activity was bouldering. I couldn’t do much else, especially during the lockdown and because of my job. I couldn’t travel. I couldn’t gallivant around the world as I usually do. I couldn’t go on surf trips. So all I thought about was bouldering. And it was great. It’s still great. But friends, it’s in danger. Because now I have freedom. Now I’m only going to be working 12 HOURS A WEEK. And the world is opening up again, friends. You can like, sort do shit now. You can sit outside at cafes. And pretty soon you’re going to be able to cross international borders. You’re going to be able to travel. So does this mean I’ll go back to my old ways?

I’m not sure. And actually, I’m not too worried about it. Like I’ve ALWAYS SAID, if I want to stop bouldering tomorrow, I’ll do it. I’m never going to force myself to do it. But the prospect of stopping makes me sad. I like being obsessed with it. I like getting better at it. I like spending half the day thinking about the beta for V3’s I still can’t do. And I don’t really want that to change.

So, we’ll see what happens. All you need to know for now is this: I’m going bouldering tomorrow. Tomorrow I’m going back to Leavenworth. And this time I’m actually going with a friend. We’re gonna find great V1’s and great V0’s and great slabs and maybe we’ll even try to dyno into the Wenatchee. Who knows. All I know is that the two can co-exist: My freedom and bouldering. This is an exciting new chapter. In fact, instead of being detrimental for my bouldering, it could take it to the next level.

Time will tell.