The Last Chapter | R2V3 #13

This is the video I’m warming up my brain with today:

What little progression I’ve had since starting bouldering about six months ago I owe at least in part to watching YouTube videos about bouldering pretty much constantly. Some of my favorites are made by the guy above, a young Swedish guy who gives insights into his training, his battles, his life. I feel like the three ways to learn better technique are: climbing a lot, taking classes, and watching people way better than you. Since I don’t want to pay for classes I’m left with the first option and the third option. And the third option you can do pretty much all the time, thanks to the internet.

Anyway, I climbed V3 outdoors. It happened two days ago in the fairly early morning on Friday. I had climbed the evening before near Gold Bar and had a really good sesh. I sent my first non slab V2 on the first go (not a flash since I had tried it before but couldn’t even do the first move), got closer on the knee crunching first moves of Rocksteadeasy V3 slab, did Regatta de Blanc V0 way easier than I had done it previously, and just generally felt pretty good. Felt pretty strong. Oh! And then I went to the Zelda Boulders, where I tried Zelda Dyno V4 for about an hour. And I actually got fairly close! I was able to get my right hand to the lip and scrape scan off with each unsuccessful attempt to grab it. I know it’ll go soon. I need to go back when the footholds aren’t wet. Also the mosquitoes were merciless. Between attempts I had to walk in circles on my crash pad, 1) to not get my feet wet and 2) to ward off the skeeters.

The next morning I woke up ASS early because of a shitty night of sleeping at the Money Creek Campground. I was convinced the guy in the site next to me was a psychopath who was going to come murder me in my sleep, and trains kept passing in the night. So when I woke up I thought, Fuck it, I’m outt a here. I’m driving straight to U2 and I’m going to try to send it. Leavenworth was about an hour away, but it was still before 6am when I got there, so I went to Starbucks and got an Americano:

And THEN I went to the bloc, aka U2 V3, aka the boulder I’ve been working on for the past month and was hoping to send that day since the next week I’d be dogsitting for my sister and wouldn’t have a chance to get out to it and also felt like sending V3 before the summer solstice would really give me a good psychological boost to actual have a chance to send V7 by the end of the summer.

Tu capisci?

And of course if you watched the video from the last post you know I sent it, but what you might not know is that I really didn’t think I was going to send it. Or I really wasn’t sure. That is, the day before I was CONVINCED I was going to send it, as you often are before you actually get to the bloc and start trying it. But after the first few goes I realized I still didn’t know how to do the top part really well, and short of having a rope or a ladder there’s no way you practice the top part in isolation. So after about four go’s I thought, Shit, this might actually NOT go today. And that would be a huge bummer. But all hope was not lost. I figured as long as I rested 10-20 minutes between burns I could keep going for awhile. But then my right hand started to fail from a pretty small crimp about 2/3 of the way up, and I realized the sun was going to hit it soon. I lay there on the ground, watching the clock just because I was curious, and after about 12 minutes gave it what I figured would be my second or third to last burn.

Funnily enough, I climbed really sloppily on that burn and my foot pretty much instantly slipped off. So I got right back down on the ground and started again. This really is a great climb and I think my favorite parts are: placing your right hand on the ledge in the perfect position before going left hand palm up to the undercling. Standing up on the left foot. Getting both hands on the sloping crimp rail just below the lip. Actually, I like pretty much the entire climb. There’s a reason it’s considered one of the best V3’s in Leavenworth, and I feel honored to have been able to project it. I had gotten so close the lip so many times that I thought, I just have to go for the lip. It’s right there. The reason I’m not going for it is because I’m scared of falling.

On the send burn I was more deliberate about where I put my right foot when bringing it up to the good rail. It’s a good rail but there are parts of it that are flatter than others. I also rocked over onto the right foot more to take stress off my hands. Once I felt fairly stable, I made a bit of a lunge for the lip. Luckily, the lip is amazing and all kinds of juggy. Once you get it you’re pretty much home free. And I couldn’t believe it when I got to the top. It was the best feeling I’d had in a long time.

Afterward I sat for a few moments, basking in my happiness, in the perfect temperatures of this last day of spring in Leavenworth, Washington. Basking in the short hike back to the car and being able to go back to Seattle and enjoy the rest of the day. And basking in looking forward to the next step: V4.

 

 

U2 Breakthrough | R2V3 #6,433

So so so so so so so so so so so so so so so so so so.

So.

SO.

Here’s the deal.

I went climbing yesterday.

And it was my best outdoor session to date.

I climbed several new routes, made a momentous breakthrough on U2 V3, ALMOST (at least I think) sent another V3 called Briefs, and just generally felt really, really good. Like all the work so far has paid off. The calluses on my fingers are building up. I can climb for longer. And not that it wasn’t fun before, because it’s always been so much fun, but it’s REALLY fun when you start to see the fruits of your labor. For example, there is a V0 at The Sword boulders called Cubicle Gangster whose start I KNOW would’ve given me trouble just a few weeks ago. The start is really only the hard part. The middle is cruisy. But the start is a bit tricky and I was really stoked to flash it.

Other sends included the one to the right of Cubicle Gangster with a strange name involving the word “Poop,” The Crack V0-, Boxers V0, and making good progress on Briefs V3. I didn’t try I heart Jugs V2 because after doing all the aforementioned problems we wanted to move onto Forestland, and I didn’t try The Classic V2 because there were lots of people and it’s high as hell.

After The Sword Boulders we went to Forestland, and it was a zoo. It was a terrarium. It was, I dare say, a gymnasium. Will I ever go back to Forestland on the weekend? Ever again? The parking lot was full. There were people at most boulder problems, at least in Lower Forestland, and you certainly don’t quite get the feeling you’re out in nature on your own. In fact, you kinda feel like you’re in a big dust bowl.

In other news, I’m feeling a BIT of the Sunday Blues today because I had coffee this morning and because I’m not climbing and because the majority of my Seattle friends are in California surfing and I don’t really know what to do. I bought some ketone testing strips, so that’s been fun. I was in moderate ketosis this morning and I think still barely in ketosis after eating a bunch of blueberries and greek yogurt. Today I might say “To hell with it,” though, and reward myself with a steaming pot of white rice. Wouldn’t that just be reckless?

I could, of course, get in my car and drive to Gold Bar right now. It’s not supposed to rain for the rest of the day. And I might actually do that. But it also seems a bit wasteful, i.e. in terms of gas/emissions/wear and tear on my car. If I really want to climb I could also go to the UW crag. Though that sounds kinda awful.

Another thing about yesterday was that I made massive progress on U2 V3. A kid was there trying The Terrible V7 and helped me with the beta for U2 a bit. ONLY LEFT HAND ON THE UNDERCLING! YOUR RIGHT HAND NEVER TOUCHES IT. And guess what? I got to the rail just below the lip. I got to the rail just below the lip and was kind of wasted by that point and panicky, and all I had to do was lift my right foot up to the beautiful rail your right hand uses instead of going to the undercling, but instead I panicked and dropped off. So no send. But it was still momentous. I was thrilled. The micro beta on that problem is wonderful. Your foot positioning is huge. And the new beta makes it so much easier. So much easier.

Since I’m only working 12 hours a week now I’ll go bouldering again this week, Gold Bar if it’s dry, Leavenworth if it’s not. And maybe Leavenworth too even if Gold Bar is dry. I would also really like to go to Index soon. I have a feeling I can send Zelda Dyno V4, since dynos are kind of my strong suit, but Index hasn’t been dry in several fortnights.

Time to pee onto a strip again, and see what my ketosis levels are. And then. And then.

And then.