U2 Breakthrough | R2V3 #6,433

So so so so so so so so so so so so so so so so so so.

So.

SO.

Here’s the deal.

I went climbing yesterday.

And it was my best outdoor session to date.

I climbed several new routes, made a momentous breakthrough on U2 V3, ALMOST (at least I think) sent another V3 called Briefs, and just generally felt really, really good. Like all the work so far has paid off. The calluses on my fingers are building up. I can climb for longer. And not that it wasn’t fun before, because it’s always been so much fun, but it’s REALLY fun when you start to see the fruits of your labor. For example, there is a V0 at The Sword boulders called Cubicle Gangster whose start I KNOW would’ve given me trouble just a few weeks ago. The start is really only the hard part. The middle is cruisy. But the start is a bit tricky and I was really stoked to flash it.

Other sends included the one to the right of Cubicle Gangster with a strange name involving the word “Poop,” The Crack V0-, Boxers V0, and making good progress on Briefs V3. I didn’t try I heart Jugs V2 because after doing all the aforementioned problems we wanted to move onto Forestland, and I didn’t try The Classic V2 because there were lots of people and it’s high as hell.

After The Sword Boulders we went to Forestland, and it was a zoo. It was a terrarium. It was, I dare say, a gymnasium. Will I ever go back to Forestland on the weekend? Ever again? The parking lot was full. There were people at most boulder problems, at least in Lower Forestland, and you certainly don’t quite get the feeling you’re out in nature on your own. In fact, you kinda feel like you’re in a big dust bowl.

In other news, I’m feeling a BIT of the Sunday Blues today because I had coffee this morning and because I’m not climbing and because the majority of my Seattle friends are in California surfing and I don’t really know what to do. I bought some ketone testing strips, so that’s been fun. I was in moderate ketosis this morning and I think still barely in ketosis after eating a bunch of blueberries and greek yogurt. Today I might say “To hell with it,” though, and reward myself with a steaming pot of white rice. Wouldn’t that just be reckless?

I could, of course, get in my car and drive to Gold Bar right now. It’s not supposed to rain for the rest of the day. And I might actually do that. But it also seems a bit wasteful, i.e. in terms of gas/emissions/wear and tear on my car. If I really want to climb I could also go to the UW crag. Though that sounds kinda awful.

Another thing about yesterday was that I made massive progress on U2 V3. A kid was there trying The Terrible V7 and helped me with the beta for U2 a bit. ONLY LEFT HAND ON THE UNDERCLING! YOUR RIGHT HAND NEVER TOUCHES IT. And guess what? I got to the rail just below the lip. I got to the rail just below the lip and was kind of wasted by that point and panicky, and all I had to do was lift my right foot up to the beautiful rail your right hand uses instead of going to the undercling, but instead I panicked and dropped off. So no send. But it was still momentous. I was thrilled. The micro beta on that problem is wonderful. Your foot positioning is huge. And the new beta makes it so much easier. So much easier.

Since I’m only working 12 hours a week now I’ll go bouldering again this week, Gold Bar if it’s dry, Leavenworth if it’s not. And maybe Leavenworth too even if Gold Bar is dry. I would also really like to go to Index soon. I have a feeling I can send Zelda Dyno V4, since dynos are kind of my strong suit, but Index hasn’t been dry in several fortnights.

Time to pee onto a strip again, and see what my ketosis levels are. And then. And then.

And then.

The Road to V2 Part 6: Riders on the Strom

So here’s my question: Does the word storm somehow come from the German word “Strom” which means “electricity?” Cuz like, lightning storms have lots of electricity. But obviously not, because the word for storm in German is “Sturm,” which would make (a lot?) more sense. But maybe it did come from Strom. I guess we’ll never know.

ANYWAY, I’m in the Apple Capital of the World right now, aka Wenatchee, aka Mexico, aka I’m in heaven. I called a place called La Fonda Oaxaqueña last night to get takeout and the guy answered in Spanish and so I just spoke Spanish and everything was perfect and after I hung up, walking across the parking lot of the East Wenatchee Mall, I had a strange lightness in my step. I love Mexico. I love everything about it, and I miss it. But I didn’t realize how much I miss it until being in a place that more closely resembles it. I ended up getting dinner from El Porton, whose quality I’m sure wasn’t like La Fonda Oaxaqueña, but La Fonda Oaxaqueña was closed.

Why am I talking about Mexican restaurants? I was just in LEAVENWORTH yesterday for the first time ever bouldering.

But let’s start at the beginning. First stop on the trip, Gold Bar. I tried to climb the clear cut boulders in what was essentially a downpour. Beam Me Up V2 was of course drenched, and the only thing that wasn’t drenched was part of Summer Solstice V3. Which was actually kind of ideal. I didn’t send the boulder, but I did do the first two moves (i.e. right hand out to the rail, left foot matching on the good edge), which was more than I’d done the first time. And today I’m going back. And it’s looking like it’s going to be dry. But I’m going to force myself to see some other boulders. I’m going to start in The Sanctuary this time, and try to climb The Catcher V0, Shortstop V2, and Stepping Razor V2.

The morning after Gold Bar I drove to Leavenworth, where it was sunny and cool and beautiful. I stopped and got a black tea from the espresso stand on the main drag just as you get into town. I walked along the pedestrian street. Everything was strangely serene and wonderful. I went to the public library where I could sit outside and use their internet. After getting soaked the night before, I was able to hang up my wet clothes and let everything dry out. And then I went up Icicle Canyon, where my first stop was The Sword Boulders.

Here I tried The Classic V2, once again with high hopes. This time I had the beta with me from Tiny Dynos on my phone right there. But what I didn’t realize about The Classic is that it’s kind of a highball. And it also traverses a bit from right to left, and I only have one pad. So I did the first couple moves and got to the ledge, but then didn’t have much in me for the traverse left and up to the top. So I didn’t send it.

Then I went to I Heart Jugs V2, where I had a much better time. I didn’t send this one either, obviously, since I’m somehow fated to never send V2 outdoors, but the movement was nice. The sit start was easy. The holds were great and interesting. I just couldn’t figure out what to do with my feet. This is something I really need to work. And I will work on it, today even, when I head back to Gold Bar to check out The Clear Cut Boulders again.

But first I need to fully wake up. I’m still in Wenatchee! I need to take a shower and perform minor surgery on my right big toe. I need to pack up my car. And I need to do a bit of driving.

Let’s get on some blocks!

Let’s….send it.