Getting Healthy Again | R2V4 #12

“Due to a lack of gadgetry, the act of bouldering is climbing movement in its most refined state.” – John Gill in Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America by John Sherman

DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT A DOCTOR OR MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL. The following are techniques I have experimented/am experimenting with. Consult a medical professional before following the advice in this blog post.

When it comes to bouldering, I have been a LOT more proactive about my injuries than with other sports. Injury #1: Medial epicondylitis, aka Golfer’s Elbow, aka pain on the outside of your elbow that got so bad a few times I climbed that my arm felt dead for up to an hour after climbing. Recipe? Stop climbing for so long, self-massage, and, the most important, ECCENTRIC-EFFING-STRENGTHENING. Eccentric strengthening (in my experience) is the best thing you can do for any overuse injury, and I’ve had a lot of overuse injuries. Self massage is also good. Rest is good but if you rest forever and just go back to doing the same thing, you will re-injure it. So you also have to learn for techniques to participate in your sport without injuring yourself.

My latest malady, aka the one I’m dealing with right now, is (I’m pretty sure) an aggravation of the teres minor, a narrow shoulder muscle that makes up part of the rotator cuff. I’ve aggravated this muscle by the constant reaching required for climbing, and not reaching correctly, aka not activating my shoulders properly. And now I’m paying the ultimate price, uncertain about my climbing future for the coming weeks and months and, most importantly, uncertain whether I’ll be able to go climbing this Sunday.

But! Knowledge is power. And after scouring the internet and YouTube I’ve found TWO YouTube videos that I think are going to be the key to overcoming this injury, coupled of course with REST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (no more back to back days until I get this shit figured out. In fact, a MINIMUM of two rest days between all climbing sessions and never pushing it once I start to feel pain):

1)

As you can see, this first video is about the subscapularis release for shoulder pain. Is the subscapularis my problem? Not really sure, but whatever tender muscle I’m touching when I do this, it feels painful but great at the same time. Self-massage is real. Self-massage using a natural ant-inflammatory ointment is even realer. Come to think of it, anything with an ointment (or a balm) is about as real as it gets.

2)

It’s HARD AF to find videos on the internet with eccentric exercises for the teres minor. Why? Because most of the clowns on the internet have eccentric motion in their videos, but also concentric motion too! In my experience, if you have an overuse injury THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS MORE UNNECESSARY, CONCENTRIC MOTION. In case you’re wondering what eccentric vs concentric means here’s a perfect example: When you do a push-up, the part where you’re pushing yourself UP is the concentric motion. The part where you’re lowering yourself DOWN is the eccentric motion. With eccentric strengthening the only thing you want to do (according to the experts I’ve read) is the eccentric motion. So when doing a pushup you would use your knees and elbows or whatever you want to get back to the starting position after slowly lowering yourself down, and then lower yourself down again. And unfortunately, almost all of the videos I found on YouTube that claimed to be eccentric strengthening for the rotator cuff or teres minor ALSO INCLUDE THE CONCENTRIC MOTION. Are these people insane? Except, of course, for the video above, which only focuses on the eccentric motion. Brilliant. I’m going to try it right now. Report to come soon.

I had WAY too much caffeine today. Like, way too much. But now I’ve had a nap and feel more or less normal again. I’m going to try these exercises out, do a little more self-massage and then maybe go out grocery shopping/for yet another walk. Maybe I’ll even meditate. Maybe I’ll go to Trader Joe’s and get snacks and veg the night away. Because that’s therapy, too.

– Wetz