Well here I am in my favorite parking lot in the whole wide world: the Howard Hopkins Memorial Pool parking lot. Yes friends, this place has it all: a tranquil setting without too much vehicle traffic (at least on weekdays), the shade of trees, and — the kicker (but don’t tell anyone) — free WIFI. You see, most people head to the public library in Leavenworth when they want free wifi. But not me. I post up at the Howard Hopkins Memorial Pool with an iced coffee and a bouldering guide on my lap, ready to daydream the day away.
Why am I not on blocs right now? Because I’m working.
Sort of. When work is slow I can do other things.
Like drink iced coffee.
And think about the beta for U2 (V3).
Speaking of the beta for U2, I’m going to go back there today, and I’m going to try the following things:
- Grabbing the right side of the undercling gaston but by rotating hand clockwise instead of counter (a reverse gaston?), and then trying to get my right foot up high.
- ONLY USING MY LEFT HAND on the undercling, grabbing the right side of it palm up, and then using the big-butt rail on the right side for my right hand and also some kind of crimp just above it.
I’m also really excited to try Fountain Blues V0 again, even though I basically sent it yesterday (I might have dabbed ever so slightly), just because the slopers are so gorgeous. And what I love about the slopers is figuring out how to grab them in just the right way so you get maximum traction. For example, on the sloper as you move up and right, the last sloper before right hand to the jug, there’s this little nubbin on the top of it that you can get one finger on and thus get much more traction. It’s little things like that, sort of micro beta, that can help so much in a send.
In other news yesterday also saw my first attempts on Fridge Center V4. In fact, here’s a video of one of my first attempts:
What a beautiful, beautiful problem Fridge Center is. Gorgeous. I spent about 15 minutes just watching other people try it. The crux is definitely once you get to the bulge at the top, navigating that. Left hand up to the bottom left of the bulge. Nice and juggy. Slap the right hand up high. Hug the bulge! Hug it! I wasn’t going to try this problem because there were a lot of people at it but then they all left and I thought, Why not? And I’m glad I did. Just to be able to do the first few moves gave me so much confidence, just to be able to get to the left facing rail. The next trick will be getting all the way the top of the left facing rail, and making sure my feet are solid. Then you just gotta reach for that jug…
Back at the Howard Hopkins Memorial Pool. Things are pretty breezy here. Breezy in the literal sense and also just care-free. These lazy, almost summer afternoons. Strolling the streets. Sipping iced coffee. Gazing up at the ridges, the clouds, the blue sky. And thinking about beta, always thinking about beta.