Have I Cracked the Code? || R2V6 #1

So, I’ve decided to start giving these Road to V6 posts numbers, because I’ve decided to take this goal seriously. So even though there have been a lot of previous R2V6 posts, today’s, as you can see, is labelled #1. How many posts from here on out will there be in the R2V6 series? Probably quite a few. Time will tell.

ANYWAY, I climbed yesterday, 6/1/2022, and the previous session was four days before that, on 5/28/2022. The 5/28 session was at the Weiner Lake Boulders in Alaska. I didn’t really send much, just some warm-up stuff and then worked on a V3 traverse and a cool V3 slightly overhanging juggy face climb. But here’s the deal about that session and yesterday’s: I felt pretty damn good. For yesterday’s I might even say I felt amazing.

Of course, even after the first sesh I was thinking, Why did I feel good today? What was different about today’s session? And more importantly: How can I replicate and optimize it?

Before we start discussing some data on the sessions, please note that I basically hadn’t felt that great climbing since about January 2022. I felt like I had plateau’d or was even making backwards progress. It was quite distressing. So to climb and actually feel pretty good for these last two sessions has been a breath of fresh air. It’s no fun to feel weak, tired and on the verge of injury basically every time you go out climbing.

THE DATA

1st Sesh: Weiner Lake Boulders, Alaska (5/28/2022)

Rest days before sesh: 2

Sleep before the sesh: Decent.

Diet in days leading up to sesh: Not great, but somewhat intermittent fasting

Diet morning of sesh: Coffee with cream in the morning from a cafe in Girdwood, nothing else but water, then some collagen powder right before the sesh

Warm-up: Decent. Basically went with the flow of the sesh. Hung from some rock. Tried some easy warm-ups. Worked the fun part of the traverse V3.

Crux of the sesh: Worked a V3 that I got really close on. Fun problem. Tried pretty hard. Shoulder felt OK. Elbow felt OK. Most importantly felt like I COULD try pretty hard.

Notes/conclusions: Two rest days before the sesh probably had a pretty big influence. No carbs or big meal weighing me down before sesh could’ve had a decent influence. How did the coffee in the morning influence the sesh/did it?

2nd Sesh: SBP Fremont (6/1/2022)

Rest days before sesh: 3 (!)

Sleep before sesh: NOT THAT GREAT (maybe about six hours)

Diet in days leading up to sesh: Decent, some intermittent fasting

Diet morning of sesh: Koia cold brew protein shake, tea with collagen/protein powder, PCC hot bar chicken and vegetables around 12pm (so pretty low net carb leading up to sesh)

Warm-up: Decent. Did some scapula pull-ups, then some scap engage core (basically keep arms straight and start to pull into a front lever [for an example of a warm-up I want to try to follow, check this amazing Hannah Morris video with coach Belinda Fuller). Climbed yellows and reds and greens to warm up, made half-assed attempt to focus on things like straight arms, downclimbed, did a decent amount of volume.

Crux of the sesh: Tried a black on the slightly overhanging well that felt like a pretty hard black. Gave it a good flash go with semi-terrible beta. Then rested standing and walking around and brushing (not just lying on the mat with my elbows back), thought about the beta, then two goes later sent it. Felt thuggy and proud. Probably could’ve optimized beta better and engaged shoulders better was still super psyched.

Notes/conclusions: Three rest days before sesh amazing. Another point in favor of minimal carbs before sesh but YES on protein. Had coffee morning of sesh, still not sure how this influences things. Shoulder felt decent. Didn’t feel like I was tiptoeing around injury nearly as much. Tried pretty damn hard on the black/hardest I’d tried in awhile. Felt so good to try hard and actually send something. Quit immediately after sending black.

MOVING FORWARD

If you’re still reading this I commend you. You must be pretty obsessed with bouldering/really bored.

My takeaways so far are the following:

  1. Rest days are absolutely paramount. Right now I need a minimum of two rest days between sessions.
  2. Low carb with protein the morning of climbing could be helping quite a bit.
  3. Intermittent fasting could be helping quite a bit.
  4. Need to continue to prioritize technique/proper form while climbing.
  5. Party.

That’s all for now. The next sesh will hopefully be Saturday, after two days of rest, and hopefully outside.

Weather permitting.

– MW