I was going to cut my hair, but then the bathroom was occupied so I thought I’d write this post. And then I was going to write this post, but I got occupied checking flights to Quebec City from Vancouver (nonstop, obviously) for a week in July. I could fly nonstop from Vancouver to Quebec city for $463 roundtrip. Not bad. Really good, actually. I haven’t been to Quebec in a long time, at least five years or so. And yet I listen to Quebecois radio all the time living near Vancouver. And I once did an immersion program in Quebec, so for a brief period of time in the summer of 2010 or 2011 my Quebecois French was pretty damn good.
(one person in a thousand will get the previous two lines and I’ll love them forever because of it).
I’m on the boat right now, heading back to Blaine tomorrow and then up to Vancouver on Saturday to take care of my friend’s cat for a week. It’s a pretty good deal, though at times I think her cat is the spawn of Lucifer. But other than that, it’s a sweet apartment in Vancouver, close to climbing, and it’s like a vacation from my life that’s already a vacation. Plus, when her cat is not acting like the spawn of Satan, she’s pretty sweet. Her name is Penny. She’s overweight. She takes an inhaler.
The point of this post is to write about my sesh at GODMAN CREEK the other day, but we’ll get to that. First I want to talk about my latest experiments with OMAD (one meal a day), or the “Warrior Diet,” or whatever you want to call it. For the past four days or so I’ve basically done an extreme form of intermittent fasting. I (mostly) fast 20 hours a day, and then I allow myself a four hour eating window. I say “mostly” because it’s not a true fast. It’s a dirty fast. I allow myself to have cream in my coffee or tea, I allow myself to have drinks like Spindrift (five calories per can), and I allow myself to have collagen/protein before and after climbing on the days that I’m climbing. But the calories I consume during the 20 hour fast are pretty negligible.
If my climbing sessions during this intermittent fasting experiment are anything to go by, it’s having exceptional results. At GODMAN CREEK I climbed the hardest I had in a long time. Most of my efforts were spent on a V3 called Tiny Tim. The top of Tiny Tim is easy; it’s the first couple moves that are tricky, especially the sit start. After getting the top wired and trying the sit start a bunch there was a distinct moment in the session where I thought, Oh, man, normally this is where I give up.
Why would I give up? Because I wouldn’t want to push my body too far. I wouldn’t want to get injured. And that feeling has come up repeatedly over the past six months whenever I’ve tried to climb hard, which means I basically haven’t sent anything in the past six months. But something different happened at GODMAN CREEK. After thinking, OK, this is where I give up, I sat down, took a breather, and realized my body actually felt pretty good. I realized I had it in me to keep toying around with the start, and by working the problem from above I came upon on a new placement for my right foot (pistol squatted on a good leg right under me), and that changed everything. I was not only able to pull onto the boulder, I was able to move from the initial position. And within a few goes, I sent the boulder (and got it on film but then lost the footage when I erased my iPhone to give it to my mom).
There was something very significant about this send. It wasn’t so much the grade (though I hadn’t sent V3 in a while); it was about how hard I was able to try. It was also implementing new projecting techniques which allowed me to figure out ideal beta much more effectively than in the past. Sending this boulder was a triumph on so many fronts, and a reminder that good diet is key to climbing hard when you’re in your late 30’s. Basically, after sending Tiny Tim and a couple other fun boulders (see: Tic Tac Toe V1), I was elated, and felt as good as I had climbing in a long time. I spent the rest of the afternoon in a kind of post-good-session bliss, that is, until I ran into traffic in the Langley/Aldergrove area and kind of wanted to die (why is Vancouver traffic so bad ALL THE TIME??? slash the city has multiple millions of people and a road system designed for 1500 inhabitants max).
Today I’ve (sort of) broken with the OMAD thing. I’m still only allowing myself a four hour eating window, but I took one of those hours from 12:15pm-1:15pm. Aka I had lunch. But it’s still better than my regular eating schedule, because normally I just eat all day to fill the gaping voids in my soul, and this way I don’t.
Great Vancouver bouldering is so far awesome. Squamish is awesome. BC bouldering (and just in general) is awesome.
Slash, I need to marry a Canadian girl.
Slash Tim Horton’s.
Slash “They’re always specifying whether they’re paying with Mastercard or Visa.”