I Should Never Drink Coffee || R2V6 #2

I’m in Blaine right now getting ridiculously caffeinated and thinking about what I’m going to do today. I woke up at 5:30am this morning. Not ideal. Couldn’t get back to bed. Of course, it’s not that bad considering I was probably asleep by about 10:30-11:00pm last night. There’s no wifi at the cottage, and phone service is spotty. For example, last night it wasn’t working at all, not even to check my voicemail, and this morning I was checking my voicemail and surfing the internet.

I had a sesh in Gold Bar the other day, and it was so muggy and hot. The goal was to finally send Cabin Stabbin’ V4, a V4 I’ve been working on on and off for a while. I realized pretty quickly it wouldn’t happen. But the session wasn’t a bust! It wasn’t a bust at all. I warmed up on some of the moves of Summer Solstice V3, and learned something about heel hooking and also continued to learn more about resting/hanging from your skeleton while climbing. Then, on Cabin Stabbin’, I dialed the crux move so that it no longer felt like the crux move. In fact, with a new and improved knee scum and a solid lockoff, it almost felt easy. So when I go back with good temps and dial in the beginning a bit more, it should go.

Last night, wandering around Blaine, and I got a burger and a couple beers at a place right next to the border, and then on a whim crossed the border and drove up to Cloverdale to check out the Project Climbing Cloverdale gym. First, however, I stopped at the casino in Cloverdale, where I promptly lost 40 dollars playing blackjack. However, I consider the casino trip totally worth it, mostly because I never go to casinos, patently don’t have a gambling problem, and had a fun time talking to the blackjack dealer. It’s fun, because I always tell people I have an addictive/obsessive personality, but there are certain things I could never see myself getting addicted to. Gambling is one of them. It’s hard to do something when you know that, statistically, you’re going to lose. Yes, it’s fun here and there, maybe with 20 CAD burning a hole in your wallet you don’t care about losing, but how could you ever do it regularly?

Part of the reason for the trip across the border is I just wanted to beta test how smoothly it would go on a random Sunday evening. I filled out the ArriveCan stuff at the Starbucks in Blaine and then a few minutes later was in line. There were a lot of people waiting to cross, so it took at least 20 minutes. Note to self: Sunday evenings are probably not a great time to cross. Getting back to the US was super easy, though. Took about five minutes. Pretty sure the agent said, “Hey, Mark,” as I rolled up in my car. Like he’d already run my plate and knew who I was. Then he asked if I’d bought any cams while in Canada. Like, he was kind of joking with me. Like, it was kind of awesome.

Speaking of cars, I need a new one. The Subee is on her last leg/axle.

ANYWAY, this is supposedly a R2V6 post, so I’ll keep talking about climbing. I’m going to Squamish either later this evening (!!!!) or tomorrow morning. Still not sure. It’s supposed to be pretty hot tomorrow in Squampton, so I’d like to climb kinda early or in the evening. Which means I either need to camp there tonight or get up super early tomorrow morning. And if I get up super early tomorrow morning I’ll be battling some Van rush hour traffic. What to do. Either way, I think the idea is to climb at Murrin Park, since it seems like it has some cool blocs and I’ve never been there before.

One coffee is too much. Why did I get two? Slash I need to go to a hardware store. Slash Walmart.

OK, time to get out of the this Starbucks. Two coffees has made me absolutely bonkers. It’s 7:55am.