Failing on Oranges || An SBP Retrospective

Yesterday went to SBP and had a semi-terrible session. Failed on a bunch of oranges. Did the thing where you pull off the ground and even getting to the next hold seems COMPLETELY impossible. I guess the only saving grace from the session was I DID have fun (climbing with Bloom and Jessa is always fun), I DID send two new oranges, and I did sort of make progress on a couple blacks. And also some of the oranges I didn’t send.

So why was I so frustrated??????????????????????

Why did I get back to my boat and angrily inject peptides into my knee and just sit around cursing for a bit?

Why did I get back to my boat and NOT EVEN WANT TO WATCH BOULDERING VIDEOS?

I mean, I of course DID watch bouldering videos when I got back. And I also listened to a podcast with Sean Bailey, and I was going to say TREMENDOUS podcast with Sean Bailey but in truth it wasn’t that good, I wanted to hear them talk about bouldering, and JUST when they were going to talk about cool shit, i.e. Sean recently starting to boulder with the gods — I mean Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods — the interviewer (Chris Klalous) brought the conversation back to COMP CLIMBING. Jesus. I don’t want to hear about comp climbing. I want to hear about tasty granodiorite jewels.

But ANYWAY, the reason I was so frustrated (I think) was because I didn’t see insane progression during yesterday’s session, and ALSO because I climbed really bad. Like normally I suss out boulders pretty well before getting on them, and I send ones where I look at it and I’m like, “Oh, OK, I think I know how you climb that.” But yesterday I was getting on blocs where I was like, “I have no idea what the sequence is here but I’m just gonna get on it anyway.”

Talk about a recipe for failure.

Talk about a recipe for frustration.

Talk about a recipe for Waldorf salad.

But the thing was I COULDN’T STOP MYSELF. Like, I knew, in the moment, that what I was doing was really counterproductive and I was just gonna piss myself off, and yet I did it anyway. And I think that’s OK, sometimes. I think yesterday I just kinda needed to rage. So I raged. I got pissed off. And now things are (I hope????????) more or less ok.

Slash I’m spiraling.

Slash I’m actually ok.

Slash I’m gonna go to REI right now and get the Lone Peak 5’s, an actual trail running shoe. I mean, not that I trail run. But you get the drift. My PT told me that if I come in wearing my Helly Hansen Chukkas again she would chain me to the elliptical. Also I only have one pair of shoes right now, which is suspiciously close to zero.

The real question here is………………………………………………………………………….

Do I stop by Whole Foods on the way?

And: Do I send my resume to SBP?

And: Do I drop in on an apartment in Leavenworth?

Or: Do I just keep talking about it?

And of course the REAL question is: Should I just say fuck it and climb today???

Or should I drive out to Index and look at some of the blocs there. And maybe bask in the sun by the Skykomish River.

Slash it’s snowing in Index today.

Slash it probably won’t actually snow.

Slash I’m wearing a knee sleeve.

Slash I really need to go to REI and get these shoes.

Slash 20% off.

When I really look at yesterday’s gym session I HAVE TO TAKE A COUPLE POSITIVES FROM IT.

And those positives are these:

1) I sent two new oranges.

2) I realized I can’t get on a boulder if I don’t look at it and think, “I could probably do that. Or I at least have an idea of how to do that.”

3) I didn’t injure my right middle finger.

4) I climbed slab.

5) I had a great time chilling with the homies.

Slash.

OK. Time to leave the boat now. For real.

Have a wonderful day, all of you.

– Wetzler

 

Setting Two | Chilling on the Boat

There is spring water on my boat I got the other day at Whole Foods. My new heater is on setting “2” which is the highest setting. It’s been working–

My stomach hurts.

I went to Whole Foods to get a matcha latte and some young coconut meat and a Hoplark Hop Tea. I didn’t realize the brand wasn’t “Hop Tea.” I thought it was Hop Tea but it’s actually Hoplark. Hope Tea is a way cooler name and much more straightforward. They have Hoplark printed vertically on the side (?) of the can and it doesn’t exactly catch your attention. Of all the Hoplark teas I prefer the green right now because of the taste and also because it might be slightly easier to drink on an empty stomach.

I injected BPC-157 into my knee this morning about an hour after waking up. I’m getting good at injecting it really close to the LCL. I like the ritual. Grab the little party pack out of the bow with the syringes and alcohol swabs. Get the BPC-157 out of the fridge and set everything up on the table. Get my knee ready, pull my pants or long underwear down and pinch the skin to find a suitable injection site but first palpitate the tendon a bit to see where it’s sore; that’s where I want to inject. Swab the top of the container holding the BPC-157 and also the part of my knee where I’m going to inject. Swab it good. Then pull the safeties off either end of the syringe and pull the white plunger part out till it’s at about 20 then turn the BPC-157 vial upside down and with my left hand try to puncture the membrane of the vial right in the middle of the little circle. Draw it out till it’s past 20, watching it fill, then push it in till it’s no more than 20 but no less than 15. Pinch the skin in my right hand and then insert the needle and slowly push the plunger until all the liquid is in me, and then pull the needle out, grab the swab and apply pressure where the needle went in. After 15 seconds or so throw the swab in the garbage, put the caps back on the syringe and put it in a little ziplock bag for used syringes. When I was on the ferry the other day I disposed of all my old used syringes in the sharps container. I felt a big strange doing it. I would’ve felt weird if anyone walked in. It was a lot of syringes. But no one walked in and afterward I washed my hands.

Last night when I got back from Nate’s I made myself some yogurt with mango and oats. First I got the mango, which wasn’t quite ripe, an ataulfo mango, and using a knife sliced all the skin off. Then I cut strips of it off the side until most of the meat was gone, and then using my hands ate the rest of the meat that was still attached to the seed. This is my favorite part, sinking my teeth into this flesh. Then I got the yogurt out and put some of the chunks in and poured some lightly-toasted oats on top. It was way too late to be eating and probably why I feel like shit today. I don’t feel like shit today, but my digestive system could be better. Then I sat on the bench seat with this yogurt mixture and ate all the good stuff out, and then put more mango and oats in, repeating the process till all the mango was gone. And then I didn’t watch YouTube videos because I’m only allowed to watch YouTube videos till 10pm. I’m only allowed to use the internet till 11pm, at which point I can journal or read or just go to sleep but usually I journal for a little bit then read and within 15 or so minutes I’m pretty tired. I get up for one last pee and then unplug the LED string lights, then turn off the portside LED dome light, and then finally the starboard LED dome light. Then I get in bed. Of course before this I’ve already put the wooden hatch boards in and also wedged the boat hook in between the the lip of the deck and part of the sliding part of the roof so if someone were to come on the boat they either wouldn’t be able to open the hatch, or they MIGHT be able to open the hatch with a lot of force but it would be really loud and I’d quickly spring over to the galley and grab my knife. That’s the plan. There are a lot of tweakers where I live.

We sang songs at Nate’s. Nate and Hunter played guitar and I sang. They sang too. We sang Beatles songs and Nirvana and Tom Petty. Buddy was on the ground and can’t really move cuz he got vaccines injected into his hind legs yesterday and now they’re all stiff.

My knee felt sore this morning and I’m not really sure why. I didn’t really take any falls climbing yesterday. I didn’t really do any knee intensive moves. I didn’t really climb hard yesterday. Maybe it’s all the BPC injections. Maybe I AM kind of doing like a poor man’s PRP. Either way the region where my LCL inserts into the fibula is a bit sore. I’ve also become completely dependent on my knee sleeve. It feels really weird not to wear it. I feel really unstable. And I can’t find the black knee sleeve I usually wear at night.

Now I’m drinking my hop tea and I have no plans for today. I don’t know if I’m realistically going to do any job applications. Or volunteer applications. I don’t know what I’m going to do. Maybe I’ll go to my parents’. I was thinking about driving to Wenatchee to stay there but that’s like three hours driving there, three hours driving back. I don’t need to do that. Plus then I spend money on a hotel. I don’t need to do that. I’d rather (I think I’d rather, at least) take walks around here and hopefully hang out with someone in the evening.

Seize and Throttle || Back on the Boat

Ugh, I kind of feel terrible today. Maybe it was all the matcha lattes yesterday. Maybe it was the carb loading before dinner. I just kind of feel…..out of it. Like, not into it. Like, all I wanna do is stare into the distance.

Today marks day three of injecting BPC-157 into my left knee. I know it’s anecdotal, but my knee feels great. Yesterday I even did a little jogging on it, and for the first time it didn’t hurt upon breaking into a trot. I also walked about six miles yesterday, which is one of my highest totals since The Injury. For those of you who are new to this blog, or new to life, or new to injuries, or new to bouldering, or new to Seattle, or new to the world of liveaboards, or new to the world of winter, or new to injecting peptides, I injured my LCL on New Year’s Eve of 2020. Since then I have taken what has probably been the most aggressive approach I’ve ever taken to injury healing. I’m attacking this thing on several fronts: diet, peptides, movement and physical therapy. The “movement” part will hopefully increase significantly after I see my physical therapist next Wednseday. I plan to ask him: “What do you think about me running gross amounts of stairs? Taking them two at a time, etc etc?” I hope his reponse will be: “Mark, you’re ready for stairs.” There are only so many bouldering videos you can watch before you have to get out there and try it yourself. But bouldering videos are a great way to improve. When you get out there on the blocs, you find yourself imitating the pros…

AKA I might go get a Patagonia fleece at REI today.

AKA it was sunny yesterday.

AKA how is the Subi still hanging in there.

AKA Nana’s Green Tea.

Aka unsweetened.

aka.

In other news. My succulent is doing better than ever. I’ve had this succulent at least over a year now. We’ve been through some tough times together, falling in the lake, getting left out in the rain, the pandemic. And we’ve come through these times as better people/plants. She/he/it looks better than I’ve ever seen her/him/it. Her leaves are supple. They’re almost vibrant. I think this summer could really be her summer. I’ll transplant her to a bigger pot. Maybe I’ll even get another succulent of the same species and put them next to each other. Just kind of let them hang out.

Is it time to go to REI now?

Yesterday the best matcha latte of the three was DEFINITELY from Milstead. You see, they mix some kind of madagascar vanilla mixture in with their lattes, making them just a little bit sweet, and a little bit vanilla-y. It was sublime. If I wasn’t doing keto today, I would definitely be back there. And if they didn’t cost almost $7. And if the place was a little less pretentious. And if they didn’t have Nick Drake playing when you walked in. Come on, Nick Drake? Who are we trying to impress here? What year are we in?

The second best matcha latte was from Mr. West in U Village. The problem with theirs is they serve it in a glass….glass and it never seems to be hot enough. Also, they used to slightly sweeten them with honey whether you asked or not. Just, “We know what’s good for you. And what’s good for you is a little honey.” I like when places do that. But now they don’t sweeten them anymore, and they taste like cardboard. But the milk was steamed perfectly.

The third best was from….ok I guess I only had two.

One was a REBBL matcha latte in a bottle. Which of course was delicious.

OK, time to leave the boat and seize and throttle the day. Wish me luck.

– Wetz