After a great climbing session yesterday I find myself in a bit of a funk. Yesterday I was supposed to go to Gold Bar, boulder there, then cross the pass and sleep at the Nason Creek rest stop, but instead it started dumping in Gold Bar so I kept driving straight to Leavenworth and went straight to the Beach Forest boulders where I basically went straight to U2. Actually, that’s not true. I climbed a lame slab to start and then climbed Brickwork V0, which is a fantastic problem even though I got pretty scared and felt completely out of my element on the top out. So I did it again, and the second time felt even more useless on the top out. But the beginning moves! Oh, the beginning moves, the beautiful side-pull jugs, the mini drop knee. Wonderful. Next time I’d like to the experiment with the V3 variation out to the right, aka F*ck the Crystal, and also the V3 that has the same start as U2, aka The Crystal Method. There’s something alluring about that huge slab of of quartz. Kind of makes you want to touch it. Kind of makes you want to gaze at it. If you gaze at it too long you might be transported to another dimension where you don’t live on a boat that smells like mildewy gym sock and where you actually have people to climb with.
But I transgress.
How has it not rained in Seattle today? It was supposed to rain today. But instead it’s been beautiful all day and sure enough when I head out tomorrow morning to Gold Bar it will probably start dumping.
The plan yesterday was originally to stay in Leavenworth, but then my friends said they were going surfing and after projecting U2 V3 for a bit, which was nothing sort of sublime, it started to rain and I thought, I don’t want to sleep in my car tonight at a rest stop in the rain. If they’re actually going surfing I’m going back to Seattle to go with them. So that’s what I did. And then we didn’t go surfing. So now I find myself back in Seattle and in a bit of a funk. Caffeine withdrawals? Possibly. Social contact with withdrawals? More probably.
So the plan is to go to Leavenworth tomorrow. The plan is to give U2 V3 all of my soul. Yesterday I made a critical advancement. I realized that if I grab the right side of the undercling not as a pinch but as a gaston I feel much more solid, and I was even able to — wait for it — hug the wall and get my right foot up. Like all the way up, to the ledge. This is almost the crux! Or at least it feels like it’s almost the crux. I haven’t worked the top part yet because I haven’t gotten there yet. I think the crux is the following: once you’ve stood up, still grabbing the undercling, to switch the grip of both hands so you’re grabbing it with your palms facing upward with the full force of your arms. I don’t think this will be THAT hard, it will just be a question of which hand to switch first, if I can go into it actually with one of the hands already switched — basically I just need to figure out the beta for this part. And then it’s moving right to the sloper, and up to the perfect lip.
God, I want this problem so bad.
The movement on this problem feels fantastic. It feels like a problem set at the gym, except about 6,000 times cooler because you’re not in South Seattle surrounded by a bunch of dudes from Amazon who just started bouldering and whose idea of fun is to go out to overpriced dinners at places like “mbar.”The height of this rock is perfect. The landing is perfect. The setting is perfect. I am falling in love with this boulder, and just how I’ve noticed when playing the piano, sections that once seemed hard are the ones that become the most fun. I feel like I could write a book about the undercling, with a chapter on the left heel hook, and the feeling as you inch your body upward to get the right foot to the ledge. The only thing I don’t understand about this boulder is the name. Were they listening to U2 during the FA? God, I hope not. It’s a beautiful day….
If it’s somehow dry tomorrow on my way out, that will change everything. I’ll either try Serenity Now V4/5 at Zeke’s Boulder just to see if I can do a couple of the moves, “check out the positions,” or I’ll make a quick stop at the Zelda Boulders in Index to check out Zelda Dyno V4 and just gaze up at The Engineer V9 (and maybe even try the start????? [why the hell not….]), or if it’s really dry I might even go up to the Clearcut Boulders and get on Rocksteadeasy V3, my first love who now that Leavenworth has entered the picture I’m quickly forgetting about. Though do you ever forget about your first love?
Not that it’s going to be dry tomorrow. If it IS dry tomorrow, I promise to post a shirt off to send video, half because it’s kind of funny and half because it actually does kind of work. The best attempt I had yesterday on U2 was my last, right after I said “F*ck it,” and took off my shirt to dry my shoes.
But for, let’s see what we can do about this funk…