Road to V5 Revamp

The weather forecast for Seattle is incredible. I don’t need to go anywhere. The sun today is setting at almost 5:00pm. In a few days it will set at 5:00pm, and then the days get longer faster and faster, and before you know it it’s setting at 6pm and then daylight savings kicks in and it sets after 7pm and then we’re home free. Spring. Spring is around the corner. The forecast for Gold Bar is incredible, too. Has bouldering season already started? Probably not; this is just a preview. Gold Bar is not usually dry this time of year. And even when it is “dry” the dew from overnight takes a long time to dry, so you can go up there when it hasn’t rained in several days and things can still be wet. But we’re going up there on Saturday, at least I’m going up there on Saturday, to commune with the stone. I’m going to try to convince my friend Wyatt to try some V6’s, and I’m going to convince myself to try some V6’s. Namely Metroid Prime.

I wanted to go climbing today but my body is feeling a bit gnar. My left shoulder feels gnar, my left achilles feels gnar, my left elbow feels gnar. Is it a coincidence that it’s all on the left side of my body, since I’m left dominant? I’ve broken my left leg, my left elbow — but I’ve also broken my right wrist. I think I need to embark on a program of full-body strength training, so if I do go to the climbing gym today I’ll focus on strength training, too. I’ll do core. I’ll do bench. I may even do squats.

The real question I have with climbing right now is: Should I start pushing for grades again? Should I make it a big priority in my life to finally climb V5 and also probably V6, since for some reason I feel like V6 is basically in the same realm of possiblity as V5? And I think the answer is yes. I’m going to a concert on the 25th with my parents, but then after that I’m “free.” I mean, I’m “free” all the time, but after the 25th I don’t have to be in Seattle at all until possibly the end of February when I possibly take care of my sister’s dog.

I believe deep in my sternum that if I made a concerted push for V5 right now I’d get it. If I focused on certain V5’s that I’ve been projecting or look possible, like the following:


Alfalfa or Spanky

Schist Cave Right



Blood Knuckle

Bar Fly (V6)



Gold Bar/ the Sky Valley:

Miller Light

Piano Man



Stinking Slopers

Metroid Prime (V6)

Ryan’s Problem (V6)


Swank Stretch

Lounge Act (V6)

If I really put my mind to the task of V5, aka really put my mind to it, and put my BODY to it too, which means eating well and taking care of myself, I know I can do it.

So why don’t I just do it?

Meanwhile, I’ve been unmotivated with work lately. It’s hard to be motivated when work is barely trickling in. Maybe it is time to get out. And by “get out” I just mean get out mentally. I don’t even have to leave the boat. But I can devote myself in mind and soul and flexor tendon to climbing these certain bouldering grades. I can structure my entire life around it, even though it’s selfish and makes no sense. I love that it makes no sense. If it made sense it wouldn’t be beautiful. The fact that it doesn’t make sense is what threatens to elevate it to the level of art, since art makes no sense. But I hate when people call things like skateboarding or surfing “art.” I don’t really care when people call them sports. Sports are vulgar and common and beautiful. Sports are for the everyman, whereas art is for the elite. And surfing and skateboarding and bouldering should be for the everyman, the everywoman, the everyperson, and not just for the elite.

I need to climb V5.