Questionable Shoe Purchase | Road to V7

Yeah, yeah, it’s the Road to V7, homies. As in, one day, insha’allah, I’ll climb V7. Or maybe I won’t. It doesn’t really matter at this point. All that matters is the movement. The way you touch the stone. The placement of a foot on a foothold. The crackle of a bag as you grab some tortilla chips while you listen to El Sonido on your boat at 10pm on a Monday night.

(hold on a sec while I do my daily Duolingo German).

OK done.

Today was my first time climbing in about two and a half weeks. It was pretty fun, but all I could think about was my shoulder. Has my shoulder healed? Am I ready to send V16 in Switzerland with Giuliano and the boys? Or is it going to be super hard to repeat all the V2’s and the two V3’s I’ve already done, let alone continue making progress, project more V3’s and V4’s and V5’s and beyond.

I have no idea. My shoulder felt….OK. Barold and I might go climbing tomorrow. I think it’ll be fine as long as I don’t overdo it, and by overdo it I mean as long as I don’t climb many days in a row. But I have no idea. I just went to Mexico and basically surfed 11 days straight and my shoulder hung in there. So why can’t I just climb like crazy? Why?

Speaking of climbing, you might be wondering why I’m doing Duolingo in German. I’ll tell you: It’s because I feel drawn to this language. It’s in my blood. All of my ancestors (well, almost all of them) come from Germany. Is it possible that on an instinctual level it feels comfortable for me to speak it? Or is that just woo woo hogwash? Are the Canucks going to win Game 5 tomorrow and then somehow force a Game 7? Or will Vegas take them down like the bullies they are? Is Quinn Hughes the best young player in the NHL right now?

The Skykomish river is so freakin’ low right now.

My recent trip to Mexico kind of got me excited about traveling again. But being forced to kind of hang around Seattle has also made me realize how much there is to do wherever you are. You don’t need go to faraway places for stimulation. I’ve always kinda thought you do. It’s always kinda been my answer for everything. But this morning I got up and walked to Fremont and on the way stopped to sit on a bench and look out at the ship canal, and there was just a slight tinge of fall in the air, and some leaves lying scattered on the ground, and the slightly muted light that fall brings, and it was beautiful. Why flit about the country like a fool when everything you need is in your backyard?

Well, cuz flitting is also kinda bomb, too. Slash, I’ll probably go to Chile this winter (their summer) if they open up again.

Also my life coach has me concentrating on making my boat a more habitable space. Now that I have plants there (see: friends) I actually kinda want to come back to it. To see how they’re doing. To make sure they’re OK.

Only one thing in my life is absolutely certain right now and that’s that I’m taking back the size 44.5 Scarpa Instincts I bought at REI today. I was so excited: An aggressive shoe! I’m going to be like Adam Ondra! I’m going to flash Midnight Lightning and move to Brno. But instead I got outside (you can’t try em on inside barefoot), put them on and almost started weeping. They were so tight. I could barely get my right foot in. And I know this is how badass climbers do it, I know they stretch out, but I’m just not cut out for a stress fracture in my right big toe right now because some stupid shoes are too tight.

Pies de gato?

So I’m going to take them back. And either exchange them for a less aggressive pair, or a bigger size, or maybe just keep sending my blown-out Scarpa Origins.

Anyway, that’s that. Send it.