Climbing Journal 6/9/22

The next climbing sesh will probably be tomorrow at SBP or somewhere up in Squamish when it gets dry again.

If I climb tomorrow at SBP my goal will be to focus on engaging my core with straight arms on a pullup bar during the warmup. If I climb, maybe I’ll try some of the exercises from The Climbing Bible, like smearing between foot moves (intentionally, where it’s not necessary [especially where it’s not necessary]), three moves per every hand move, (and finally, something with flagging and something with projecting). For the something with projecting, I’d like to start applying my outdoor tactics to indoor climbing, because it’s more effective and also because it will help ingrain it. The basic idea is this: unless you’re sure you can easily flash it, don’t try to flash it. Break it into chunks. Do the easy moves. Get them dialed. Do the topout. Link some of the segments. Refine the beta. Look for better beta. Do the topout again. At this point, if you haven’t tried to the starting move, do the starting move. Finally, when you feel pretty good about it, give it redpoint burns.

As far as flagging goes, a good start would simply be figuring out ways to practice flagging. Inside, outside, etc. If I DON’T climb tomorrow (or even if I do), I could do a “training” session, aka hangboarding and maybe some moonboarding.
For the training session I could do weighted pullups (or just a ton of eccentric drops? or weighted eccentric drops), hangs, jumps to edges (campus rungs), and 4×4’s? We’ll see.

(end of journal entry)

Yo, homies, this post contains affiliate links. If you buy the book linked to in this post I might earn a little something, though probably not very much. Mostly I wanted to link to the book so you can see what the hell I’m talking about.