Mentally Preparing

I’m mentally preparing for a trip to Trader Joe’s this evening. What will I buy????? Oh, but the possibilities are limitless. Pickled herring. A Danish kringle. Daal. Grassfed yogurt, where the actual yogurt itself is fed a steady diet of grass of six months before being packaged. Grassfed beef, in which the beef is fed a steady diet of grass. Cold brew. Smoked oysters. Kombucha. Eggs. Bread. More eggs. Less eggs. More bread. Even more bread. Less bread. And finally more bread again.

Today has been a day of good notices. First of all the market was up. Second of all I had physial therapy and foud out at the end of my physical therapy that I can basically do unlimited apppointments in April without having to get approval from my insurer. Thirdly I applied for some jobs. Fourthly I found out I’m still getting unemployment. And fifthly…..what was fifthly? Oh yeah, I had a good coffee. I got Chipotle. I went and looked at the cherry blossoms in the quad.

Lots of good things.

Physical therapy was exciting because today they did their three month assessment, and the main PT cleared the PT’s working on me to push me a lot harder. Get me jumping up and down, get me moving side to side. She said at this point the tissue is mostly healed so now some of the biggest obstacles are psychological. I can do a lot more than I think I can do. Lateral movement is still scary, but that’s because I think I’m more injured than I am. The most exciting part is the jumping up and down is going to prepare me for precisely things like falling off a wall onto a bouldering pad, or falling off a boulder onto a small bouldering pad. She knows I climb, and she knows I want to be able to climb again. So that’s what she’s preparing me for.

In other news, my right hand feels fucked. I climbed three times in two days earlier this week, and it was simply too much. Normally I would climb tomorrow with H at 4:30pm, but I’m gonna have to sit it out. I MIGHT be able to climb on Sunday with Bloom and Jessa, but I want to get my hand back to normal and THEN give it a couple additional days of rest before climbing again. At the latest I should be climbing again sometime next week. At least it’s not my knee, right? Crying face.

Excuse me while I lather myself in CBD oil.

In other news I’m going to reduce my blogging frequency to once every two days. Every day is just a little too much.  I feel like it makes the quality of the posts suffer, and it also makes me burnt out on writing. It’s a tough balance for me because on the one hand I want to get better at writing and stick to a schedule, but on the other hand I don’t want to hate it.

So.

The lathering is complete and it’s almost time to leave the boat. I think I’m going to walk to Trader Joe’s, which would imply walking across the Ballard Bridge. OR! I could go to the TJ’s in Queen Anne, which is equal parts exotic and soothing. I could park my car kinda far away so I’m forced to walk through Queen Ann, which would be equal parts tranquil and comforting.

Anyway.

There you have it.

 

Fire Up the Two-Stroke

Fucasdasf;ladksjf;lkdasjf;ldasjf;lkdasjfl;kdasjf;ldkasjfdl;aksfjdsl;kfjdsl;kafjdasl;kfjda

I need caffeine.

Gonna take the boat out today for the first time this season. Got ‘er semi gassed up. Don’t have any snacks though; that’s a real problem. The snack sitaution must be remedied. I actually looked at google flights today and thought hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm where could i go right now. Like not tomorrow. Like right now. Like I get on the light rail to the airport in 15 minutes and fly somewhere in the caribbean again and start drinking alcohol again and just spend a week rotting in the caribbean. Sounds pretty fun.

OK. So. The people at the Leavenworth Haus are officially offering no rent till May. Should I move there. What’s the status on the knee? Well, still not fully healed. Not even close. I keep thinking it’s kinda close, then I’m like nahhhhhhhhhhhh probably gonna be another couple months. So frustrating.

I need more caffeine fuck I’m addicted.

asdfkl’adsjf;lkadsjfl;dksjfldaskfjdaslk;fjdas;lkfjd;slfjdas;lkfjadsflkds

Failure to observe what is in the mind of another has seldom made a man unhappy; but those who do not observe the movements of their own minds must of necessity be unhappy. – Marcus Aurelius

My therapist told me she liked Marcus Aurelius when she was in her teens. If you like Marcus Aurelius in your teens, what do you then graduate to? Joan Didion? Noam Chomsky? No, Noam Chomsky is probably somehow basic, too. Sartre????? No, so fucking basic. The plays of Henrik Ibsen????? Then again, she didn’t know who Karl Ove Knausgaard was, and Karl Ove Knausgaard is not basic, there’s just no way.

Maybe he’s kinda basic.

Who cares.

OKASDJFKDASJKFDAKFJDKFJDKFJDSFJKSFJDKSFJSKFJASFJDDSJ

And amino acids.

He’s like a poor man’s Sean Bailey. Similar style, similar hair.

I’ve been posting pretty much daily for the past month and I want to keep the streak alive.

I just don’t think it’s healthy. A few years ago Clara made me SWEAR to her not to write for a year (I was allowed to journal) and that was one of the greatest years of my life. I did journal. But I didn’t write any fucking blog.

This boat leaves in one hour and 18 minutes. I’m going to go out and fire up the motor. See if it works. It’s a two-stroke Johnon. A two-stroke Johnson! My boat does about 5 knots at a really good clip. I have no idea what the hull speed is but she’s covered in muck from sitting all winter and she hasn’t had a haul out in about many years so her bottom is just covered in algae and all sorts of other stuff. The rudder, god you would cry if you saw the rudder. It’s a green mess of flora. I should probably get out the brush and brush it, but I’m too lazy.

My forearms are absolutely shredded today.

Ok that’s about enough of this. I’m going to go do some chores, aka maybe clean boat, aka probably not, aka maybe do some light yoga, aka try to fire up the two stroke.

– Wetz

Failing on Oranges || An SBP Retrospective

Yesterday went to SBP and had a semi-terrible session. Failed on a bunch of oranges. Did the thing where you pull off the ground and even getting to the next hold seems COMPLETELY impossible. I guess the only saving grace from the session was I DID have fun (climbing with Bloom and Jessa is always fun), I DID send two new oranges, and I did sort of make progress on a couple blacks. And also some of the oranges I didn’t send.

So why was I so frustrated??????????????????????

Why did I get back to my boat and angrily inject peptides into my knee and just sit around cursing for a bit?

Why did I get back to my boat and NOT EVEN WANT TO WATCH BOULDERING VIDEOS?

I mean, I of course DID watch bouldering videos when I got back. And I also listened to a podcast with Sean Bailey, and I was going to say TREMENDOUS podcast with Sean Bailey but in truth it wasn’t that good, I wanted to hear them talk about bouldering, and JUST when they were going to talk about cool shit, i.e. Sean recently starting to boulder with the gods — I mean Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods — the interviewer (Chris Klalous) brought the conversation back to COMP CLIMBING. Jesus. I don’t want to hear about comp climbing. I want to hear about tasty granodiorite jewels.

But ANYWAY, the reason I was so frustrated (I think) was because I didn’t see insane progression during yesterday’s session, and ALSO because I climbed really bad. Like normally I suss out boulders pretty well before getting on them, and I send ones where I look at it and I’m like, “Oh, OK, I think I know how you climb that.” But yesterday I was getting on blocs where I was like, “I have no idea what the sequence is here but I’m just gonna get on it anyway.”

Talk about a recipe for failure.

Talk about a recipe for frustration.

Talk about a recipe for Waldorf salad.

But the thing was I COULDN’T STOP MYSELF. Like, I knew, in the moment, that what I was doing was really counterproductive and I was just gonna piss myself off, and yet I did it anyway. And I think that’s OK, sometimes. I think yesterday I just kinda needed to rage. So I raged. I got pissed off. And now things are (I hope????????) more or less ok.

Slash I’m spiraling.

Slash I’m actually ok.

Slash I’m gonna go to REI right now and get the Lone Peak 5’s, an actual trail running shoe. I mean, not that I trail run. But you get the drift. My PT told me that if I come in wearing my Helly Hansen Chukkas again she would chain me to the elliptical. Also I only have one pair of shoes right now, which is suspiciously close to zero.

The real question here is………………………………………………………………………….

Do I stop by Whole Foods on the way?

And: Do I send my resume to SBP?

And: Do I drop in on an apartment in Leavenworth?

Or: Do I just keep talking about it?

And of course the REAL question is: Should I just say fuck it and climb today???

Or should I drive out to Index and look at some of the blocs there. And maybe bask in the sun by the Skykomish River.

Slash it’s snowing in Index today.

Slash it probably won’t actually snow.

Slash I’m wearing a knee sleeve.

Slash I really need to go to REI and get these shoes.

Slash 20% off.

When I really look at yesterday’s gym session I HAVE TO TAKE A COUPLE POSITIVES FROM IT.

And those positives are these:

1) I sent two new oranges.

2) I realized I can’t get on a boulder if I don’t look at it and think, “I could probably do that. Or I at least have an idea of how to do that.”

3) I didn’t injure my right middle finger.

4) I climbed slab.

5) I had a great time chilling with the homies.

Slash.

OK. Time to leave the boat now. For real.

Have a wonderful day, all of you.

– Wetzler

 

Driving South || Gym Sessions at Seattle Bouldering Project

I didn’t blog yesterday and kind of feel bad because of it.

But I also kind of needed a day off.

What happened was I got back super late from a friend’s house and didn’t want to write a blog that I didn’t put my heart and soul into, and so decided it would be better just to not write one at all.

Please excuse me while I make some tea.

I’m going climbing at SBP today, one of my favorite places on planet earth. I’m going to SBP Poplar with a couple friends, and I couldn’t be more excited about it. We’re climbing upstairs, which I haven’t done since I got injured. Upstairs is cool because it A)  Is fucking massive, B) always has cool problems, and C) (and this is the bet part) Has two boulder islands where you can top out. One thing you don’t realize if you haven’t climbed outside that much is that climbing outside involves A) a lot of sit starts, and B) a lot of topping out. Granted, there ARE problems outside where you don’t top out. But it’s kind of lame. The only two I can think of in Washington are Schist Cave (well, I guess there are a couple problems in the cave) and Summer Solstice V3. I’m sure there are others, I just don’t know about them yet. Oh! I guess people don’t usually top out Footless Traverse (V5? V6?) either. But I haven’t gotten to that one yet.

Bottom line, I’m really, really, really stoked to climb later this evening. Aka shortly.

Last time I climbed at SBP was one of my best sessions back from injury. I sent my first post-injury black and also sent an orange that I really didn’t think I was going to send that involved getting the body kind of horizontal and also having to do a controlled cut loose swing over to some footholds. Such a fun problem, and I felt like I was going to fall off most of the time. Today the goals are: Do at least one new orange, maybe do one new black, and link a couple moves on a blue. So, not crazy goals. Totally doable. I like to keep my goals fairly doable so I set myself up for success. I don’t buy that theory that’s like, SET CRAZY GOALS YOU’RE NEVER GONNA ACHIEVE CUZ THEN EVEN IF YOU GET KINDA CLOSE YOU’LL BE ACCOMPLISHING SO MUCH. Uh, no. That sounds like a terrible approach. How about set a goal you KNOW you can do, or at least you’re pretty sure you can do, and then go out there and do it and feel wonderful about yourself, instead of setting a goal you know you’re going to fail at.

Anyway.

Still gotta make that tea.

In case you’re wondering what tea I’m drinking it’s a heaping scoop of Organic Brain Booster by Amazing Grass mixed with one scoop of Vital Proteins Marine Collagen. I’m doing a vegetarian thing right now where I only eat eggs and seafood. No red meat, no poultry. I find myself getting tofu quite a bit these days, which I never would’ve done in the past. I’ve generally scorned tofu, and now I find myself eating it. My how the tables have swiveled.

Get to SBP, 4.5 minutes on the bike, do some hanging, stretch out the shoulder with one of the bars, and then climb a BUNCH of easy stuff. Like, yellows and reds, upclimbing, downclimbing, sideclimbing. Climb some greens. Then start sussing out some purples. OK, now we’re having a little fun…..Then maybe take a sideways glance at some oranges and some blacks. Maybe even check out a blue when it’s not looking. Better yet, find someone sending a blue and steal their beta. Assuming it’s good beta. One thing that just watching a lot of climbing during my two months of no climbing helped me with was reading problems better. I’ve never been THAT GOOD at reading problems, but climbing outdoors helps a ton and I think watching videos of pros helps quite a bit, too. At least that’s my theory. Or maybe since I’m still kind of injured I just think WAY more critically about a problem before getting on it, because I want to minimize all chances of falling. Either way, it’s something I should’ve done for a long time.

Anyway, it’s about time to start driving south. And finish my tea. And start driving south. And start warming up. And finish my tea. And start driving south. And start driving south.

– Wetz

Top 5 Badwater Bouldering Videos

Hello! And welcome to Where’s Wetzler, everyone’s sixth favorite website for all things bouldering related in the Pacific Northwest of the United States of America. This used to be a travel blog. It sort of still IS a travel blog, but it’s also mostly about bouldering now (see: exclusively about bouldering.)

Today I’d like to present to you one of my favorite YouTube channels out there, definitely my favorite YouTube bouldering channel (Mellow and Bouldering Bobat and Emil Abrahamsson are in a close 2nd). The channel comes from two twin brothers, Jake and Kyle Love of the bouldering magnate Badwater Bouldering. They’ve been creating top notch pebble content for the past few years, and it’s been great to watch as the quality of their videos improves along with the size of their following. Today I will be commenting on my favorite five videos from them. So, with only a little further ado…….

THE TOP 5 BADWATER BOULDERING VIDEOS (according to your host and dictator for life, Mark Wetzler)

So, real quickly, how did I pick these videos? Well, the criteria was pretty simple. I simply sat down in the lotus position with a scalding cup of black tea, closed my eyelids, and let the five videos from Badwater Bouldering I’m most stoked on drift into my consciousness. And then I went to their channel and realized there were a bunch I wish I had picked, but too late! If they didn’t come to me during my meditation, they were axed. And so now with zero more ado….

5. Premium Coffee

Honestly I mostly picked this video for the wink at 0:37. Oh and because this is one of the sickest problems in Leavenworth (not that I’ve done it personally but I’ve been there a bunch and may have even fondled the slopers).

4. Camp Serene Boulder

I think I like this video mostly because I’m obsessed with the Camp Serene boulder. It lies right off the highway so you’re constantly subjected to the karmic fields of dozens of aggressive bubbas driving their Dodge Rams on their way to mask-burning parties, but it’s just such a beautiful granodiorite bloc. It’s got so many good problems and two of my favorite projects right now (or when I can climb outdoors again): Serenity Now and Climax Control. Hell, maybe one day I’ll even send Chemical Imbalance V8. Stranger things have happened, wrong????

3. Squamish Road Trip

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, Squamish.  Ahhhhhhhhhh, British Columbia. How I love you. I want to be in a relationship with you. I want to live in you. And one day I want to climb your scintillating granodorite rhinestones. When will we be able to go to BC again????? July???? Never????? Justin Trudeau, get your shit together and open your country for boulderers only. Make it accessible by aptitude test in which you display proper closed crimping technique and list at least one famous V16.

Anyway, this video: They’re in the Squamish A&W in this video reminiscing about their trip. What more do I need to say?

2. Fight Club

I have this listed as number two but it’s probably not my second favorite. I don’t know what my second favorite is. I’m confused. But I do like how hard they try in this video. I like what a struggle it is. Makes it so satisfying when they finally send it.

1. Projecting Midnite

Here we go: My favorite video from Badwater Bouldering. Why is it my favorite? Because when I got Pablo Zueleta’s Western Washington Bouldering this was one of the lines I was like: “I have to do that sometime in my lifetime.” Like, this boulder is a life goal. Like, I’ve sent the V3 next to it, so I’m pretty close, right? Like, that one should actually probably be a V2.

I love this video because it fully documents the struggle, because it’s one of the most classic lines in Washington State, because it’s NOT in Leavenworth, and because of the festive nature and the music when the send finally happens. Good going, guys.

So there you have it. Hope you enjoy these videos. All of their videos are good, these are just some that have stood out to me. If you want to sponsor these guys on Patreon here is a link to their Patreon account: https://www.patreon.com/m/Badwaterbouldering . I am not a Patreon subscriber quite yet; I’m waiting for a video of their send of the mega classic and elusive Built to Last V8 before I fully drop in.

Thank you Jake and Kyle for your wonderful content!

– WW