Road to V3 #3: U2

In case you missed it, R2V3’s post was a “vlog” yesterday:

That’s right: R2V3 is the next step not only in my bouldering “career,” but also in my “writing/taking video about my bouldering ‘career.'” The vlog starts off with a beautiful shot of the Bavarian village of “Leavenworth,” coupled with sing-songy German music. And then pans up to me drinking a delicious, albeit overpriced, americano from famed “J5 Roasters” in Leavenworth.

But I’m not here today to talk about climbing. Well, that’s actually the only thing I’m here to talk about, but I’m not here to talk about any aspect of it in particular. I don’t know why I say “climbing” when many “climbers” probably wouldn’t consider bouldering “climbing.” Many climbers look down upon bouldering, whereas I do the exact opposite. I have little to no desire to ever go sport climbing in my life. Maybe I will someday and maybe I’ll think, “Man, this is fucking awesome,” but if someone were to ask me tomorrow, “Mark, wanna go sport climbing?” I’d say, “Yes, but let’s leave the ropes and harnesses at home and let’s only do really short climbs on smaller rocks.” I’m all about that kind of sport-climbing.

I’ve always been drawn to sports that require minimal gear when there is a logical counterpart or “cousin” to that sport that requires more gear. For example, in the world of board sports my sport of choice is skateboarding. Minimal gear. A board. No bindings. You’re not attached to the board. Contrast that with snowboarding, where you’re ATTACHED to the board, you need chair lifts, you need to drive to the mountain, etc. etc. Thus, skateboarding to me is the “purest” of boardsports, along with maybe (aka probably) surfing. But this also applies to regular sports! Of all the regular sports the one I like most is soccer. Why? Minimal gear. For basketball you need a hoop! For baseball you need gloves and a bat and bases and an overweight umpire and chewing tobacco and 30,000 drunk fans. But for soccer you only need a ball. Goals are nice, too, but they’re very easy to improvise. Much easier to improvise than a basketball hoop.

And then we come to bouldering. Again: minimal gear. If you’re Charles Albert all you need is chalk. If you’re an old-school purist all you need are shoes (and no chalk). And if you’re a regular boulderer all you need are shoes, chalk, and a pad. Some other things are nice, too, like a brush, and a couple extra pads, but they’re by no means necessary. I’ve been having the time of your life with only one pad.

OK, and now I actually DO want to talk about climbs. About boulders. Because I’m still completely obsessed with U2 V3 from the Forest area of the Beach and Forest Boulders, and I’m dying to go back. I contemplated (very briefly) driving all the way back to Leavenworth today just to get up on this bloc. But. My body needs a rest. And I don’t want to do four and a half hours of driving just to try a boulder for 15 minutes. Also, I’ve noticed that when projecting a boulder rest days can be the most beneficial training you can do, and not for the muscle recovery but for the beta. I’ve noticed that you learn beta for a boulder not when you’re trying the boulder but when you’re resting, thinking about it. It also helps to watch videos. For example now I feel completely confident in the beta for U2 and feel like I can go back, do the start really easily (because it’s easy), get up to the undercling, and then get my right foot higher, stand up, and reach over to the slopers. That’s really the whole problem. This is what I got from watching the guy from TinyDynos do it, though he looks pretty short, so hugging the undercling the whole time might be harder for me.

I need to do laundry today. I don’t want to do laundry. Man, what I would give to be in a warm apartment or a warm house right now. But I’ll take a cold, damp boat instead.

The Last Chapter (R2V2 #9)

Ahhhhh friends, where to start? This, this ninth installment, will be the last ever in the existence of “Road to V2.” Why? The answer is quite simple, but nonetheless compelling: I sent V2 outside. Yes! You read that right! This is not some kind of hoax, some kind of bedevilry your eyes are playing upon you: I sent the bouldering grade V2, on real rock, not in a gym. And it was glorious. It was glorious and over all too quickly. And as with sending anything that you’ve been working on for awhile, it kind of felt like, “Wait, that was it?”

The boulder in question: Eight Bit Slab V2, of the Road to Zion boulders, of the Clearcut Boulders, of the Reiter Foothills Boulders, near Gold Bar. When? Two days ago, Wednesday, May 27th, the year of Yaweh two thousand and twenty. What were the circumstances? Please read on…

First, a video of someone ELSE sending Eight Bit Slab:

Now, I know what you’re thinking: I should get a new car instead of a used car. Because they don’t cost THAT much more and you get a warranty and they break down less, right? Plus, I’ve never had a new car.

Actually, you’re probably not thinking that. But you probably HAVE thought that at some point. Now, you’re probably thinking, “Jesus, that’s a beautiful slab.” And you’re damn right. That is a beautiful slab. That’s one of the reasons Eight Bit Slab is rated three stars in the Western Washington Bouldering guide by Pablo Zuleta, the mythical pebble wrestler himself. But climbing slab is of course not like wrestling! No, climbing slab is a dance. It’s like hanging out with that guy from Game of Thrones who always used to call “Arya” boy. Be like water! He said. Or he might’ve not said that. I don’t really remember.

I don’t really remember much about this climb, either. All I was thinking was, “Don’t fall.” The great thing about this boulder is it has a pretty good landing, and a beautiful seam running right up the center of it. It’s also high enough to get your heart beating irregularly, but definitely not a high ball. It’s a “middle ball.” Or maybe a “middle to high ball.” If it were a human it’d be that guy named Ryan who’s 5’10”, drives a newish Subaru, has a good paying job, and has never done anything remotely original in his life. No, no, no. It would be nothing like that. It could never be human. If this slab were animate it would be a whale, rolling in the deep. A mythical beast with perfect handholds.

So now this blog will be called “Road to V3,” and you can bet I’ve already got my sights on some V3’s. There’s the V3 slab I was trying with Terri the other day, Rocksteadeasy V3. There’s Summer Solstic V3, a tantalizing delight of slopers and meathooks and overhanging posterity. There’s the Regatta de Blanc V0 version that traverses into BMOC V2, thus becoming V3. There are the V3’s on Hate Rock in Leavy. The cool sloper one and the two campus ones.

And this is getting a bit ahead of myself but of course I already have my sights set on V4’s and V5’s. You’d have to, right? Today I went and checked out the Beach Boulders in Leavenworth and stood humbled and fairly wetting myself at the base of Beached Whale V3, one of the most epic, horrifying slabs I’ve ever seen. And then there’s Dyno 101 V3, which I know I can send, but unfortunately it’s currently three eights underwater. And as for the the V4’s and V5’s I mentioned in the topic sentence of this paragraph before instantly changing gears, today I started off the day by going to Forestland for the first time, where I sent a V1 called XXXXX and checked the infamous One Summer V5, which looked impossible until I later realized I had been looking at a V6 variation. There was also The Real Thing V4, which doesn’t look completely impossible.

So yeah, I have reached the end of Road to V2, though of course the road doesn’t really end but rather bifurcates in countless directions as you continue to try and fail on other V2’s, project other ones, flash other ones, and generally become a “climber.” I never thought I’d say this after the past 2.5 months of lockdown, but I actually need a bit of a respite from climbing. I’m going to climb tomorrow, of course, weather permitting, in the illustrious East Miller River Valley, on the rainy side of the Cascades. And then on Sunday I might go pick up my hangboard from my parents’ house. Once that gets mounted on the boat I’ll be a crimping machine. And maybe I’ll even lose the belly I’ve been complaining about for the past two months.

Beta to Try Tomorrow (R2V2 #8)

The Wenatchee River V12.

I’m headed back to Gold Bar tomorrow morning. Climb the Clearcut Boulders in the morning, then go up to the Morpheus Boulders for the evening sesh. The next morning head to Leavenworth and hit up some Tumwater boulders on the way in. In the evening hit somewhere not too far down Icicle Canyon.

I’m psyched to try some new beta on this trip. I’ve been thinking about these problems a lot. You always think of new beta, and then get there and realize it won’t work. But sometimes it does. And the best is to see someone else do it and steal their beta. That’s what I’ve done in a lot of these cases. Got to use my height! Other than my just pure zest for dermis on diorite right now, my height is the best thing I’ve got.

Today I started training on my boat. I realized I actually have a perfect place to hang from, and if I walk my feet up the wood that covers the bottom of the mast in the cabin, I can simulate bad footholds on a severe overhang. Bonus, since this is one area where I struggle most. Now I just need to get the hangboard on the boat, so I can simulate bad crimps with bad footholds on a severe overhang. There there’ll be nothing stopping me….

Anyway, here’s some beta I plan to try to tomorrow. If I send even a couple of these climbs I’ll be super happy.

The Catcher V0:

Move left onto the shark fin jug. Lunge for the top hold. Don’t even mess with the side rail.

Shortstop V2:

Start in the actual right place. Lunge the right hand up to the arete. Strong.

BMOC V2:

Try it fresher this time? Actually go for the crimps?

Beam Me Up V2:

Think about core tension. Go for that intermediate left hold. Try putting all your weight on the left foot. Think core tension and go for that beautiful edge.

Mr. Brightside V1:

I mean, at least try it this time.

Rocksteadeasy V3:

Ohhh, so much beta to try for this one. Try the right hand on the seam instead of the crimp. Try doing it fast. Experiment with bumping the right foot out and smearing it on the wall and inching it up. Trust the left foot more. Maybe both hands on the seam? Right hand on the crimp and left hand on the seam? Are there any holds I’m missing?

 

 

R2V2 #7: Zen and the Art of Bouldering

 

The Warm Up Slab V0 in the Doja Boulders, view from above.

I feel compelled to answer the question of why I like bouldering. I don’t think anyone should be required to have an answer for this question. There seem to be two schools of people when it comes to bouldering: the grade chasers and the people who do it for the pure joy of the movement. But from my own experience I know these schools are not mutually exclusive. In fact, I think it would be hard to pertain completely to one or the other. In my case I love them both. I love chasing grades. Grades in bouldering to me are like a road map upon which to chart your progress. I love maps. I love knowing where I am, and I also like knowing where it’s possible to go. Whenever I’m at my parents I sit down with their giant, 300 or so page full color atlas of the world and just page through it, looking at places like Botswana and Southern India and the Kamchatka Peninsula, wondering what those places are like and if I’ll ever go there. And so it is for me with bouldering. I love looking at the guidebook. I love getting stoked on climbs. Last night I made a list of all the slabs in the Sky Valley I want to try. And I can’t wait to get out there and get on ’em.

But I also like just the movement of bouldering, the “Zen.” I love the way the granite feels on your skin. I love thinking about each hold as if it were its own little universe. I love thinking about how each individual move on a boulder problem is a story unto itself. When you can do a climb relatively easily, but not too easy! it’s easy to appreciate these stories. This is how it was for me climbing the V0 slab pictured above. There is a beginning, a middle, and an end. It’s an adventure. And no part of the adventure is more important than any other. The first move is just as important as the last. In true Zen bouldering there would be no cruxes. Each move would be given the same thought, the same care. Maybe this is why when the girl I bouldered with yesterday named Terri (sp?) told me I had terrible footwork I burst out laughing. Because I do have terrible footwork. I know this. And I think it’s hilarious. It would be hard for someone to have less technique than me when it comes to footwork. But she gave me a great tip. “I noticed you’re not looking at the hold a lot of the time when you go for it,” she said.

“Really?”

“Yeah.”

“You look at every hold?”

“I’d say at least 90% of them.”

This made me think. I do almost never look at the holds. This is something I can change, something I actually want to change. And it ties in with the zen of bouldering. Treating each hold with care. Treating each hold with importance.

But anyway, I actually don’t really want to talk about the Zen of bouldering any more right now. I just want to tell you a few more things about this last weekend, which was my first ever trip fully devoted to bouldering!

Some highlights:

  1. Hanging out underneath the overhang that houses Summer Solstice V3, in a rain storm, looking out over the valley and trying the first few moves.

2. Going to Leavenworth the next day for the first time ever (to boulder) and getting absolutely sketched out by The Classic V2.

3. Saying “screw it” later that evening, driving to Wenatchee and getting a hotel. And enjoying every minute of it.

4. Bouldering the next day again near Gold Bar and meeting Terri and climbing with her for the afternoon. Seeing her flash Beam Me Up V2, which I found so badass.

5. Seeing her send Rocksteadeasy V3, in the first couple attempts.

6. Working on Rocksteadeasy myself, trying to trust my left foot, knowing that it’ll go someday.

7. And finally chilling by the creek by the turn-out after the session, sitting on my crash pad, dangling my feet in the water, watching the sun filter through the plants and the tufts of cotton (though obviously they’re not cotton), drift through the sunlight.

Now I just can’t wait to go back. I have my slab list. I think there’s a legitimate chance that Rocksteadeasy V3 could go on my next trip. There’s a less legitimate chance that Beam Me Up will go, since I don’t have the strength for it yet. And there’s a whole mess of other problems I want to try. Hopefully I finally send The Catcher V0. Hopefully I get up on Tetris Left and Tetris Right (both V1’s). Maybe I’ll make more progress on Summer Solstice V3. Oh! And there’s Mr. Brightside, a V1 that looks super fun.

I’ve decided to do the titles differently from now on. Right now this series is called R2V2 (Road to V2), and when I finally send V2 (I don’t Cud Crack V2 at the Pasture Boulders in Leavenworth, since I was tall enough to not have to use the incut crimps that probably make the problem V2) it will be called Road to V3. And then V4, and so on and so forth…

Also, Terri got a picture of me on the Warm Up slab, and if she sends it to me you know it’ll be going up here on the blog. Even though I look ridiculous.

Because that movement….

-W

 

The Road to V2 Part 6: Riders on the Strom

So here’s my question: Does the word storm somehow come from the German word “Strom” which means “electricity?” Cuz like, lightning storms have lots of electricity. But obviously not, because the word for storm in German is “Sturm,” which would make (a lot?) more sense. But maybe it did come from Strom. I guess we’ll never know.

ANYWAY, I’m in the Apple Capital of the World right now, aka Wenatchee, aka Mexico, aka I’m in heaven. I called a place called La Fonda Oaxaqueña last night to get takeout and the guy answered in Spanish and so I just spoke Spanish and everything was perfect and after I hung up, walking across the parking lot of the East Wenatchee Mall, I had a strange lightness in my step. I love Mexico. I love everything about it, and I miss it. But I didn’t realize how much I miss it until being in a place that more closely resembles it. I ended up getting dinner from El Porton, whose quality I’m sure wasn’t like La Fonda Oaxaqueña, but La Fonda Oaxaqueña was closed.

Why am I talking about Mexican restaurants? I was just in LEAVENWORTH yesterday for the first time ever bouldering.

But let’s start at the beginning. First stop on the trip, Gold Bar. I tried to climb the clear cut boulders in what was essentially a downpour. Beam Me Up V2 was of course drenched, and the only thing that wasn’t drenched was part of Summer Solstice V3. Which was actually kind of ideal. I didn’t send the boulder, but I did do the first two moves (i.e. right hand out to the rail, left foot matching on the good edge), which was more than I’d done the first time. And today I’m going back. And it’s looking like it’s going to be dry. But I’m going to force myself to see some other boulders. I’m going to start in The Sanctuary this time, and try to climb The Catcher V0, Shortstop V2, and Stepping Razor V2.

The morning after Gold Bar I drove to Leavenworth, where it was sunny and cool and beautiful. I stopped and got a black tea from the espresso stand on the main drag just as you get into town. I walked along the pedestrian street. Everything was strangely serene and wonderful. I went to the public library where I could sit outside and use their internet. After getting soaked the night before, I was able to hang up my wet clothes and let everything dry out. And then I went up Icicle Canyon, where my first stop was The Sword Boulders.

Here I tried The Classic V2, once again with high hopes. This time I had the beta with me from Tiny Dynos on my phone right there. But what I didn’t realize about The Classic is that it’s kind of a highball. And it also traverses a bit from right to left, and I only have one pad. So I did the first couple moves and got to the ledge, but then didn’t have much in me for the traverse left and up to the top. So I didn’t send it.

Then I went to I Heart Jugs V2, where I had a much better time. I didn’t send this one either, obviously, since I’m somehow fated to never send V2 outdoors, but the movement was nice. The sit start was easy. The holds were great and interesting. I just couldn’t figure out what to do with my feet. This is something I really need to work. And I will work on it, today even, when I head back to Gold Bar to check out The Clear Cut Boulders again.

But first I need to fully wake up. I’m still in Wenatchee! I need to take a shower and perform minor surgery on my right big toe. I need to pack up my car. And I need to do a bit of driving.

Let’s get on some blocks!

Let’s….send it.

 

R2V2P5: Beam Me Up (session 1)

I accidentally typed “R2V2,” which would stand for Road to V2, which is NOT the name of this series (it’s Road to V7), but considering the events of the past week much more fitting. Ladies and boys, I still haven’t sent V2 outdoors. But I’ve figured out which boulder it’s going to be: Beam Me Up, located in the Rubik’s Cube cluster of the Reiter foothills boulders.

Behold:

OK this isn’t a picture of the boulder. It’s just a sick picture Barold took on our first ever mission to the Reiter Foothills. Minutes after this picture was taken we spotted the elusive “Five Star Warm-Up Boulder,” where both of us got shut down by a slopey V3.

Here’s the actual boulder:

OK this isn’t really the boulder either. It’s me sitting next to it with my sock on my hand after getting shut down by it. I couldn’t do the second move. But now I think I’ve got it figured out: Move the legs to the side to get them out of the way, hug my body in closer to the wall, reach up blind to the first left handhold. Before I think I had my body too far away from the wall. Also, I need to just practice this second move till I get it, since it’s essentially the “crux” (can V2’s have cruxes?). Once you get your left hand up to the good crack you can bump it up further and then pull yourself up onto the ledge you had your hands on to start. And it’s pretty much smooth sailing from there. You’ve sent your first V2 and can move on to your first V3, aka Summer Solstice:

Look at this beautiful block. I never thought I’d have to project V3 but this is totally going to be a project for me. The first part is just moving from the fabulous first hold to the sloper. Then it’s traversing the sloper and getting to the fabulous jug on the right side of the photo. And then it’s just a couple more good holds to the top. Last time the problems were I was tired from failing on Beam Me Up, it was raining, and I didn’t put the crash pad right where it needed to be for me to just collapse onto it from the slopers. But I know I’ll make progress when I go back. Summer Solstice, I’m coming for you. How sick would it be to send Summer Solstice on or before the summer solstice? That would be a good step on the road to V7.

In other words I have TWO days off next week in addition to have Monday off for Memorial Day. So where am I going? I don’t actually know. I’ll probably try to go back to the Reiter Foothills to climb Beam Me up, and if it’s too wet keep going to Leavenworth, in which case my first V2 plans would have to radically change. Nothing highball please; I’m a huge wuss.

I’ve never been more excited to send V2. This is what I love about bouldering aka being 36 and starting bouldering. Sending V2 for me is going to be huge. I’m going to be so stoked. It’s going to be like sending V10 for most people. And then sending V3 aka Summer Solstice aka hopefully some boulder in Bend on my way down to Cali in June? Even better.

Progression is what’s so exciting. Progression. Getting stronger (even though before COVID I was way stronger but whatever).

Anyway, just wanted to give you an update on what’s going on in these down days. Dreaming of granodiorite and perfect holds.

The Road to V7, Part 4: Run for the (Foot)Hills

There is a little bouldering area just outside of Gold Bar, WA, called the “Reiter Foothills.” You probably haven’t heard of it unless you’re into riding dirt-bikes/being from Monroe. The thing about this area is the following: A few years back some people discovered that there were big-ass boulders there, and that “problems” could be found on these boulders, and that these “problems” could even be rated on the quote unquote “V scale,” and that using this scale people from all over the world (but mostly the Seattle area) could come to enjoy the grand outdoors and test their climbing mettle.

Which is exactly what my friend Barold and I did on Friday.

Some sources compare Beam Me Up to pitch 15 on the Dawn Wall.

Barold and I drove separate cars to the Reiter Foothills. We stopped at the Safeway in Monroe to stock up on provisions/people watch. I love people watching in places like Monroe because, though it’s just 40 minutes out of Seattle, the culture is completely different there. This is huntin’ culture, goddamnit. This is, “Hey baby, why don’t we go down to the that Mexican restaurant later and get a couple margaritas and some of those fajitas,” type culture. These people are real “salt of the earth” types, whatever that means. I think it mostly means they have less of a problem with eating multiple meals a week at McDonald’s and with xenophobia.

But I’m not here to judge, damnit! Who would I be to judge? I’m here to get my hands in some granodiorite holds. I’m here to get exercising while having the time of my life. I’m here to see some new blocks. I’m here to send V2, damnit.

If you read my last post you know that on this trip I fully expected to send V2. You might say I took it for granted. I even had the perfect V2 scoped out, “Beam Me Up,” located in the Rubik’s Cube cluster. I had even watched videos on how to do this boulder. I had beta. It was a (insert expletive) V2. That’s mostly the reason I fully expected to send it. I climbed V5 at the gym once, right? So V2 outdoors should be a walk in the dog park.

But I didn’t send it. In fact, I didn’t even really come all that close, in that I couldn’t even do the start.

The start of Beam Me Up is a table-sized jug that you could serve dinner for six on. The problem is it’s a sit start, and since I’m kind of tall I had to splay my feet out wide. The other problem is that the holds after the start are good but not that good. I mean, to Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb these holds would be veritable craters that you could camp in, let alone fix your hands on. But to me they were the razorest-thin crimps. So I got my right hand up to the first little crimpy rail, and then..had no idea what to do with the left. I would just kind of collapse onto my pad like someone kicking a deflated soccer ball. I tried multiple times, and Barold even pulled up a video — SO I HAD THE BETA RIGHT THERE — and still couldn’t do it. Too weak, too slow. It was a rude awakening. It was how I might imagine it to be to fall off your bed into a Finnish lake in winter.

The only upside? I flashed the V1 next to it, “Scotty.” Woooooooooooooooooo….

L’Hotel du Chemin.

After this it started to rain, so Barold and I made our way to other boulders to check them out. I tried Summer Solstice (V3) and failed even harder. We went to climb a V0 crack and the only other people out at the boulders that day were already there. Then, after sort of bushwacking, we happened upon a beautiful V2 called “The Container.” This one was actually fun. We could actually do some of the moves. And it didn’t even matter that it was raining, because it was slightly overhanging and the holds were roughly the texture of Harrison Ford’s voice in “The Fugitive.” So at this boulder we felt a little better about ourselves. Granted, we couldn’t top out, because sending V2 just wasn’t in the cards for us, but we still had fun. Barold took some vids and pioneered the beta. I took my shirt off. The rain continued. And at some point it was time to call it quits, not so much because of the rain because both of us (or at least I) were completely wasted. Time to head back to the cars. The V2 Bombers would have to wait for their day in the sun.

 

 

R2V7 #3: This Weekend’s Dream Session

I’m scheming on my next bouldering session, which could actually happen as early as tomorrow. Picture this: You get in your car after work. You drive to the ferry. You get on the ferry. You ride the ferry with the windows slightly cracked, the breeze in your rapidly-greying hair. You get off the ferry and drive an hour and a half to everyone’s favorite Washington town, Gold Bar. You drive a little past Gold Bar into the Reiter Foothills. And then you boulder your ass off.

If I don’t go tomorrow, I’ll definitely go Saturday morning, since that’s the only time it’s supposed to be dry. Or I’ll finally go to the Jefferson Lake boulders on the Olympic side, which might be opening on Saturday after some recent closures due to wildfires. Or I might not go bouldering at all. I might just sit at home and mope around and watch YouTube videos.

If I DO go bouldering, here is the desired (see: dream) outcome, step by step:

  1. Show up to the Reiter Foothills. The sun is almost setting and it’s glorious. I feel good, healthy. My friend Barold is with me. We quickly find the Rubik’s Cube boulders and within minutes both send Beam Me Up (V2). I’m stoked because it’s my first ever V2 outdoors and I feel like something special might happen this evening.

2. We look around and find more fun problems to climb, mostly in the V0-V2 range. We climb a V3 and are super stoked and decide to just say screw it and head for something in the project category, aka Water (V6).

Here we try to do it a bit on our own at first but after making zero advancements decide to watch the above video for some beta. Even with this beta we’re still not super close. We retreat to our cars to chill as the darkness sets completely and we go to bed.

3. We wake up in the morning, warm up some more, and then head BACK to water. This time we’re actually doing the moves, and it looks like it might even go. What??? V6??? Out of nowhere on throw-away burns we both send it. Ten minutes later it starts raining and out of the forest, lost on a hike, walks the love of my life. We start dating medium to long term. We get married in Mexico and sail around the world for 10 years. We have a baby and name him something only pronounceable in Malay.

4. Drive back to Seattle.

So that’s hope I hope it will go if I go bouldering this weekend.

More to come soon!

 

 

The Road to V7 (#2)

“Start matched on a half-pad crescent shaped edge, paste your left foot on a glass smear as well as the right, pull on and do a left hand move to a quarter-pad, rounded, slick crimp. Bite down hard on this hold and move your right foot high and right onto a decent edge, then isolate the left arm and come right hand into the shark’s tooth. This hold is so cool yet loco! How you grab this hold determines if you do the next move or not. For me, I place my ring finger on the left side of the spike and middle finger on the right side (the hold size is less than a quarter-pad and bites like no other). I then load my two fingers and wrap my thumb around the side of the tooth. When you get this, you make a fist with the wall and can feel the edge cut through a couple layers of skin, which is what holds you onto the wall. I then bring my left foot high on this knob right below the starting hold and explode to the left hand mini-pinch. This hold is slick, quarter-pad, and has an OK thumb catch, which makes it positive. It is hard to have the right accuracy to get this hold perfect. Now you are in the stand of Rastaman Vibration (V12). From here you switch your right foot onto the knob and place your left foot on a smear out left. You eye up the final half pad, rounded crimp and jump to it. Your feet go nearly horizontal while your fingers are squeezing these two holds. Once controlled, you do the remaining 30-foot slab to the top of the boulder.”

– Daniel Woods describing Lucid Dreaming (V15)