24.3.12

The sun is a perfect yellow and silver circle in the sky, its edges sharp despite the surrounding haze. Going to Rabat. Jamila beyond nice. Felt so good when she put her hand on my thigh or grabbed my arm. I haven’t had the touch of a woman in a long time. Sad to leave her but I must go on. Flying across the Moroccan countryside with sun setting, sheep and cows grazing. The people here are wonderful. They shake your hand promptly when they see you in the street and touch their chest afterward to acknowledge it if it’s a first time.

Our taxi driver was certifiably insane. I’ve been in a few crazy taxis but that took the cake. Raised the bar.

I almost just said I feel like I’m in Africa. I am in Africa.

And She’s Like

And I’m like: What happened?

And she’s like: Well, we had some weed…

And I’m like: Oh shit…

And she’s like: Yeah, it was quite an experience.

And I’m like: Well, I’m glad you came out the other side. But really I’m like: What the hell were you thinking, trying to bring weed across the border?

And she’s like:…

And I’m like:….

And she’s like:….

And I’m like: I’m going swimming.

Anubis V7 (and other Squamish boulders I didn’t climb)

Yesterday climbed with two super-strong 24-year-olds from Tacoma.

We tried:

Anubis V7

Summer Vacation V0

Cheese Grater V2 (should be V3+ imo)

Skin Graft V4

Paralyzing V4

…and a couple others.

I couldn’t do a single move on Anubis V7, which was a bummer. I sent summer vacation but didn’t start low enough. I didn’t send Cheese grater; didn’t even get close, really. I came very close on Paralyzing using a left heel hook beta supplied by Random Hero but was pretty wasted by that point.

Tomorrow Jeff comes into town and the plan is to go do all the easy rad stuff in the Viper area. Climbs like: The Dentist V0**, Squamish Days Traverse V1***, Squamish Days V0****, Fried Ant V0+****, Mad Crap V1**, Left Rib V2***, and White Bread V1****. I don’t know if there’s another area with more highly-rated easy climbs in Squamish. Maybe we’ll even throw Summer Vacation in there if Jeff is feeling a highball. And I could do it from the correct start. And maybe get redemption on Paralyzing V4. When the guidebook says to “launch for sharp jugs at the top” and you do it static, can you still claim it? What about if you just launch from the initial holds all the way to the very top? What about if you just launch from the initial holds onto your back and then lay there on the bouldering mats, groaning softly? What about if you go over to your friend’s house for a margarita with a bunch of nurses and you’re self-conscious about your nose hair?

OK time to post this real quick before I repent!

Left Brain

I’m in Squamish and so far I’ve climbed:

A V1.

A V3 called Black Dyno.

A rad V2 called Left Brain.

And a couple others.

I’ve tried Black Mark V4 and gotten owned. Apparently it’s sandbagged.

And now I’m off to Whistler.

– Wetz